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Climbing at Lusatian Mountains

3192 routes
5 areas
1–10 grades

The Lusatian Mountains lie in northern Bohemia on the border with Saxony, between Nový Bor, Jablonné v Podještědí and Jiřetín pod Jedlovou, and continue into the German Zittau Mountains. The protected landscape area is made of wooded hills, some of them volcanic bodies exhumed from Cretaceous sediments – such as Jezevčí vrch of sodalite trachyte, protected as a national nature reserve – with sandstone rock towns and viewpoints between them such as Popova skála, Krkavčí skály and the Sloní kameny natural monument.

Climbing is mainly on firm sandstone. The best-known crags are Horní skály (Obrvégry) near Rynoltice, also suitable for beginners, and Falkenstein with Sokolík and the Cvičná věž towers above Dolní Světlá. Many routes at Horní skály were first climbed more than a century ago, some in 1904. Chalk is banned in the Lusatian and Jizera Mountains climbing areas and the sandstone rules apply. For Horní skály, park about 3 km from Rynoltice along road 13 just before the village; for Falkenstein, park free at the upper end of Dolní Světlá and follow the green trail to the border barrier, then 300 m left to the towers. Climbing is possible most of the year; summer weekends get crowded.

Part of Czech Republic, Lusatian Mountains has 3192 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 10. Explore its 5 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Traditional Climbing, Sport Climbing.

Rules

On sandstone the ČHS sandstone rules apply – no chalk, no metal protection and dry rock only. On other rock the ČHS rules for Czech rock areas apply.

Much of the area lies in the Lusatian Mountains PLA. Check the ČHS crag database for any closures before you go.

5+
Vyhlídka
Along the left downhill edge, or through the corner under the overhang and the K chimney,… Rock Climbing
6-
Vyhlídka
Through the center of the downhill face directly to the viewpoint (1st known ascent… Rock Climbing Danger Vertical wall
2
Boží hrob / Jeskynní věž
Through the center of the upland wall (carved steps) to the pre-summit. Overhang and up… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Šenovská jehla
Up the right upland edge over the additional ring to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5
Boží hrob / Jeskynní věž
In the right part of the SE wall (to the left of the chimney), chimneying and up the wall… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7
Šenovská jehla
Up the left downhill edge past the ring, higher diagonally to the left to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7
Šenovská jehla
Through the center of the SE wall directly to the summit. Rock Climbing
5+
Obelisk
From the upland, traverse right along the ledge down the valley wall to the K and up the… Rock Climbing
5+
Obelisk
Down the articulated SE wall over overhangs and the S edge n. v. Rock Climbing
5+
Obelisk
In the left part of the NE wall, directly over the BH and in the last ledge from the left… Rock Climbing
4-
Kuželka
Through the center of the downhill wall past 2K n. v. Rock Climbing
2
Obelisk
On the right in the NW wall, up the wall (carved steps) across the balcony n. v. Rock Climbing
4+
Obelisk
On the right in the NE wall, directly n. v. (1st known ascent Stanislav Feigl Jr. 9. 9.… Rock Climbing
2+
Obelisk
From the block near the upland edge, step over to the edge and along it (carved steps) n.… Rock Climbing
4+
Kuželka
In the left part of the downhill wall, through the crack and along the left downhill edge… Rock Climbing
2+
Kuželka
Up the right upland wall (carved steps) n. v. Rock Climbing
5+
Kuželka
Along the crack in the E wall and directly along the edge n. v. Rock Climbing
4-
Kuželka
Through the center of the upland wall n. v. Rock Climbing
5
Děravec
Through the center of the SE wall, higher diagonally to the right to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
4+
Děravec
With an edge (overhanging at the end) past the clock directly to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
4-
Děravec
With an edge across a small balcony, higher diagonally to the left n. v. Rock Climbing Textile belay
2
Děravec
To the left in the NE wall, a chimney to the overhang of the Old Route and that way to… Rock Climbing Textile belay
4-
Děravec
Like the Normal Route 3m up and diagonally left to a small balcony. Edge straight to the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Děravec
To the left in the SW wall, a crack to the pre-summit. Like the Old Route to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay
2+
Děravec
In the middle of the NE wall, a chimney to the pre-summit. Like the Old Route to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Děravec
From the start of the Northeast Chimney, left a crack and the wall to the pre-summit.… Rock Climbing Textile belay
2
Děravec
From the SE, through the chimney between Bezcenna and the tower to the balcony, and the… Rock Climbing
4+
Žlutá stěna
In the middle of the wall, a crack in the corner, higher up a narrow chimney n. t. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5+
Borová věž
With a wall fault straight up and over the ledge to the top. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay
4-
Borová věž
To the left of the Old Route, the wall diagonally to the left to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay

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