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Climbing at Lusatian Mountains

3192 routes
5 areas
1–10 grades

The Lusatian Mountains lie in northern Bohemia on the border with Saxony, between Nový Bor, Jablonné v Podještědí and Jiřetín pod Jedlovou, and continue into the German Zittau Mountains. The protected landscape area is made of wooded hills, some of them volcanic bodies exhumed from Cretaceous sediments – such as Jezevčí vrch of sodalite trachyte, protected as a national nature reserve – with sandstone rock towns and viewpoints between them such as Popova skála, Krkavčí skály and the Sloní kameny natural monument.

Climbing is mainly on firm sandstone. The best-known crags are Horní skály (Obrvégry) near Rynoltice, also suitable for beginners, and Falkenstein with Sokolík and the Cvičná věž towers above Dolní Světlá. Many routes at Horní skály were first climbed more than a century ago, some in 1904. Chalk is banned in the Lusatian and Jizera Mountains climbing areas and the sandstone rules apply. For Horní skály, park about 3 km from Rynoltice along road 13 just before the village; for Falkenstein, park free at the upper end of Dolní Světlá and follow the green trail to the border barrier, then 300 m left to the towers. Climbing is possible most of the year; summer weekends get crowded.

Part of Czech Republic, Lusatian Mountains has 3192 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 10. Explore its 5 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Traditional Climbing, Sport Climbing.

Rules

On sandstone the ČHS sandstone rules apply – no chalk, no metal protection and dry rock only. On other rock the ČHS rules for Czech rock areas apply.

Much of the area lies in the Lusatian Mountains PLA. Check the ČHS crag database for any closures before you go.

3
Dvojče
About 4m to the right of the Old Road, up the wall to the top. Rock Climbing
2+
Dvojče
To the left of the Old Road, along the edge, using the steps, to the top. Rock Climbing
Přeskok
Dvojče
Jump from the S block to the top. Rock Climbing
2
Dvojče
On the left in the V wall, along a wide crack to the top. Rock Climbing
3
Dvojče
Up the chimney between the tower and the S block, higher up, a traverse to the top. Rock Climbing
Přeskok
Májová věž
About 2m to the right of the small overhang of the Old Road, jump from the block to the… Rock Climbing
4-
Májová věž
Through the chimney between the W block and the tower to the block, overhang and right up… Rock Climbing
5
Májová věž
About 2m right of the SE edge, up the wall, crack, and briefly along the edge to the… Rock Climbing
5+
Májová věž
Through the center of the E wall over a ring to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5
Májová věž
Directly up the NE edge to the summit. Rock Climbing
2
Májová věž
From the S, through the chimney to a small overhang. Rock Climbing
2
Májová věž
Through the gully between the tower and the western block to the block. Up the wall over… Rock Climbing
3
Májová věž
From the right, up the S wall, then up the NE edge to the summit. Rock Climbing
4+
Komáří věž
Directly up the left part of the upper wall to the summit. Rock Climbing
5
Komáří věž
Up the valley-side S wall (clock) along the depression, higher up left to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
4+
Komáří věž
Up the wall along the right upper edge to the summit. Rock Climbing
2+
Komáří věž
On the right in the upper wall (carved holds) to the summit. Rock Climbing
6-
Sova
Like the Variant of Stará cesta (Old Route) to the end of the crack and then directly up… Rock Climbing Textile belay
4+
Sova
Climb directly to the summit via the right part of the Northwest face. Rock Climbing Textile belay
4+
Sova
In the left part of the Northwest face to a balcony. Diagonally left up the face to a 2nd… Rock Climbing Textile belay
4-
Sova
Climb the crack in the South face to a balcony, traverse left to the crack of Stará cesta… Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Sova
From the West, climb the crack over a balcony, then up the face to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
2+
Paličák
Up the plateau wall via chopped holds and steps n.v. Rock Climbing
5
Paličák
Up the left valley edge and the valley wall directly n.v. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5+
Sloní skála
Through a crack over 2 rings to the rappel station. Rock Climbing
4+
Sloní skála
Through a slabby wall over a ring n. v. Rock Climbing
5+
Sloní skála
Through the wall to the right of the corner over 2 rings to a rappelling bolt. Rock Climbing
6+/7-
Sloní skála
Through a narrow pillar in the valley wall over 2 rings to a rappelling bolt. Rock Climbing
5+
Sloní skála
In the side (W) wall, a wall along the overhanging edge to a ring and higher directly to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +1
5+
Vyhlídka
Along the left downhill edge, or through the corner under the overhang and the K chimney,… Rock Climbing

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