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Climbing at Lusatian Mountains

3192 routes
5 areas
1–10 grades

The Lusatian Mountains lie in northern Bohemia on the border with Saxony, between Nový Bor, Jablonné v Podještědí and Jiřetín pod Jedlovou, and continue into the German Zittau Mountains. The protected landscape area is made of wooded hills, some of them volcanic bodies exhumed from Cretaceous sediments – such as Jezevčí vrch of sodalite trachyte, protected as a national nature reserve – with sandstone rock towns and viewpoints between them such as Popova skála, Krkavčí skály and the Sloní kameny natural monument.

Climbing is mainly on firm sandstone. The best-known crags are Horní skály (Obrvégry) near Rynoltice, also suitable for beginners, and Falkenstein with Sokolík and the Cvičná věž towers above Dolní Světlá. Many routes at Horní skály were first climbed more than a century ago, some in 1904. Chalk is banned in the Lusatian and Jizera Mountains climbing areas and the sandstone rules apply. For Horní skály, park about 3 km from Rynoltice along road 13 just before the village; for Falkenstein, park free at the upper end of Dolní Světlá and follow the green trail to the border barrier, then 300 m left to the towers. Climbing is possible most of the year; summer weekends get crowded.

Part of Czech Republic, Lusatian Mountains has 3192 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 10. Explore its 5 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Traditional Climbing, Sport Climbing.

Rules

On sandstone the ČHS sandstone rules apply – no chalk, no metal protection and dry rock only. On other rock the ČHS rules for Czech rock areas apply.

Much of the area lies in the Lusatian Mountains PLA. Check the ČHS crag database for any closures before you go.

2
Soudek
From the massif from the southeast, descend to the eastern edge and along it to the… Rock Climbing
2+
Soudek
4
Vana
Up the northeast chimney for about 5 meters and then right along the running ledge… Rock Climbing
6-
Vana
On the left in the valley side, up the wall to the ring. Up to the ledge and directly up… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5
Vana
In the valley wall, to the left of the Northeast Chimney, up the long ridge to the Old… Rock Climbing
2
Vana
On the left in the valley wall, up the chimney to the Old Route plateau and along it to… Rock Climbing
7
Vana
In the center of the valley wall, over the overhang - ring, and then to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
1
Vana
From the northern plateau, up the rocky steps easily to the summit (Artificial holds used… Rock Climbing
2
Vana
On the right in the valley wall, up the prominent corner to the summit. Rock Climbing
1
Vana
From the start of the Old Route, traverse left to the western edge and along it easily to… Rock Climbing
7
Samuelova sluj
On the left in the southeast face, up the crack that intersects the entire wall to the… Rock Climbing
7
Samuelova sluj
From the entrance to the cave, left to the large balcony in the southeast face above the… Rock Climbing
5
Samotář
On the eastern side, up the wall to the right and a short gully to the summit. Rock Climbing
5
Samotář
Between the East and Short routes, up the overhanging wall to the summit Rock Climbing
5
3
Samotář
From the southeast, up the rocky steps and gully, over the overhang to the summit. Rock Climbing
3
Samotář
From the small balcony, traverse 2m to the right and up the rocky steps to the summit … Rock Climbing
3
Samotář
Southwest edge to a small balcony and then to the summit Rock Climbing
6-
Masiv u chaty na stráži - severní část
To the left of the start of the "TGM" route, up the wall past 2 K (bolts?) and slightly… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
7
Masiv u chaty na stráži - severní část
Up the sloping crack (voravi 2. K of the "Spolubydlo" route) and the right sloping crack… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
2
Srázová věž
7
Srázová věž
Through the center of the north wall, via ring, to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
?
Srázová věž
6
Srázová věž
On the southwest side, narrow crack to the fore rock. Along the edge to the top. Rock Climbing
1
Srázová věž
From the eastern fore rock, by overhang and a short gully to the top. Rock Climbing
6
Petrův kámen
From the left side of the eastern wall, up the wall (K) and slightly to the right n. v. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Vertical wall
2
Trpasličí věž
From the south, via gully and chimney n. v.
6
Petrův kámen
In the middle of the northeast wall, to the right to the ring. Straight up the wall to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
2
Petrův kámen
2
Petrův kámen
From the large fore rock on the southwest side, by overhang and along the rock steps to… Rock Climbing

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