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Climbing at Lusatian Mountains

3192 routes
5 areas
1–10 grades

The Lusatian Mountains lie in northern Bohemia on the border with Saxony, between Nový Bor, Jablonné v Podještědí and Jiřetín pod Jedlovou, and continue into the German Zittau Mountains. The protected landscape area is made of wooded hills, some of them volcanic bodies exhumed from Cretaceous sediments – such as Jezevčí vrch of sodalite trachyte, protected as a national nature reserve – with sandstone rock towns and viewpoints between them such as Popova skála, Krkavčí skály and the Sloní kameny natural monument.

Climbing is mainly on firm sandstone. The best-known crags are Horní skály (Obrvégry) near Rynoltice, also suitable for beginners, and Falkenstein with Sokolík and the Cvičná věž towers above Dolní Světlá. Many routes at Horní skály were first climbed more than a century ago, some in 1904. Chalk is banned in the Lusatian and Jizera Mountains climbing areas and the sandstone rules apply. For Horní skály, park about 3 km from Rynoltice along road 13 just before the village; for Falkenstein, park free at the upper end of Dolní Světlá and follow the green trail to the border barrier, then 300 m left to the towers. Climbing is possible most of the year; summer weekends get crowded.

Part of Czech Republic, Lusatian Mountains has 3192 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 10. Explore its 5 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Traditional Climbing, Sport Climbing.

Rules

On sandstone the ČHS sandstone rules apply – no chalk, no metal protection and dry rock only. On other rock the ČHS rules for Czech rock areas apply.

Much of the area lies in the Lusatian Mountains PLA. Check the ČHS crag database for any closures before you go.

7-/7
Bílá stěna
Start in the middle of the massif to the left of the Temple Road route, over 4 rings to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7
Bílá stěna
Through the middle of the downhill (northeast) wall, through a crack and a fissure to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6-
Bílá stěna
Through the middle of the overhanging eastern wall, over a ring directly to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6
Bílá stěna
Start in the right part of the wall. The route follows the crack to the 1st ring and then… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5
Holubí věž
Left of the route Zelená sedma (Green Seven), climb the southwest corner crack to the… Rock Climbing
?
Socha svobody
8+/9-
Socha svobody
Via the edge over three bolts to the route Nuremberg Sausages (Nuremberg Sausages IXa… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
6-
Poštolčí stěna
To the summit via the overhanging northeastern wall over a ring. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6
Poštolčí stěna
To the summit via the western wall. Rock Climbing
7
Poštolčí stěna
To the summit via the right (northwest) downhill edge over a ring. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6
Poštolčí stěna
Directly to the summit via the southwest edge. Rock Climbing
7
Poštolčí stěna
In the downhill (northern) side, wall and crack to the summit. Rock Climbing
7
Švédská věž
On the right side of the downhill wall, a crack runs to the right under an overhang. On… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7
Švédská věž
To the left of the start, up a brittle wall into a small hole and slightly right to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
3
Poštolčí stěna
Through the center of the short (northern) upland wall to the summit. Rock Climbing
6-
Švédská věž
Left part of the downhill wall along a crack to a ring. Crack to a ledge and right to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
8+/9-
Švédská věž
From the "Švédská jeskyně" (Swedish Cave), up the chimney to the wedged block and… Rock Climbing
6+/7-
Švédská věž
Up the chimney using opposing pressure around the 1st ring to the 2nd ring and then along… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
9
Švédská věž
Up the edge directly to the 1st ring of the Superkante route and that route without the… Rock Climbing Danger Vertical wall
6-
Švédská věž
Up the western edge directly to the ring. Left behind the edge into the north wall and up… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7
Švédská věž
Fall from the massif to the center of the uphill wall. Up to the sandy ledge. Traverse… Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Švédská věž
Under the overhang to the right behind the edge and up the north wall to the ring. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4+
Švédská věž
From the massif, fall to the right uphill edge and traverse right to the ring of the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5
Švédská věž
In the narrow eastern wall, over the overhang and up the fine crack to the ledge.… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7
Nová věž
On the right side of the downhill wall, up the crack to the top. Rock Climbing
4
Zapomenutá věž
Up the narrow western wall under the overhang directly to the top. (Artificial holds used… Rock Climbing
6
Zapomenutá věž
On the right side of the north face, up the wall to the top. Rock Climbing
2
Nová věž
On the uphill wall, up the right western edge to the top. Rock Climbing
7
Zapomenutá věž
Between the Stěnka and Náhorní spára routes, up the wall to the top. Rock Climbing
5+
Zapomenutá věž
Danger

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