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Climbing at Lusatian Mountains

3192 routes
5 areas
1–10 grades

The Lusatian Mountains lie in northern Bohemia on the border with Saxony, between Nový Bor, Jablonné v Podještědí and Jiřetín pod Jedlovou, and continue into the German Zittau Mountains. The protected landscape area is made of wooded hills, some of them volcanic bodies exhumed from Cretaceous sediments – such as Jezevčí vrch of sodalite trachyte, protected as a national nature reserve – with sandstone rock towns and viewpoints between them such as Popova skála, Krkavčí skály and the Sloní kameny natural monument.

Climbing is mainly on firm sandstone. The best-known crags are Horní skály (Obrvégry) near Rynoltice, also suitable for beginners, and Falkenstein with Sokolík and the Cvičná věž towers above Dolní Světlá. Many routes at Horní skály were first climbed more than a century ago, some in 1904. Chalk is banned in the Lusatian and Jizera Mountains climbing areas and the sandstone rules apply. For Horní skály, park about 3 km from Rynoltice along road 13 just before the village; for Falkenstein, park free at the upper end of Dolní Světlá and follow the green trail to the border barrier, then 300 m left to the towers. Climbing is possible most of the year; summer weekends get crowded.

Part of Czech Republic, Lusatian Mountains has 3192 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 10. Explore its 5 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Traditional Climbing, Sport Climbing.

Rules

On sandstone the ČHS sandstone rules apply – no chalk, no metal protection and dry rock only. On other rock the ČHS rules for Czech rock areas apply.

Much of the area lies in the Lusatian Mountains PLA. Check the ČHS crag database for any closures before you go.

5+
Buková věž
Up the center of the north face via subtle chimney cracks to a balcony and then up the… Danger
3
Buková věž
On the right side of the upper face, up the edge to a ledge, traverse right and up the…
4+
Vyhlídková věž
Up the right edge of the upper face (NW edge). Rock Climbing
5
Vyhlídková věž
Fixed belay
6
Vyhlídková věž
Fixed belay
5
Vyhlídková věž
Danger
5
Vyhlídková věž
6-
Vyhlídková věž
Fixed belay
5
Vyhlídková věž
From the left edge of the upper face, traverse left and up the SE edge. Rock Climbing
5+
Vyhlídková věž
Danger
5
Vyhlídková věž
4
Bílá paní
Rock Climbing Fixed belay
3
Bílá paní
Rock Climbing Fixed belay
4
Bílá paní
Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7
Padavka
In the left (eastern) part of the wall, up the middle of the smooth slab to a ring bolt.… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
3
Bílá paní
In the upper wall, over the overhang and to the right along the SE edge to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7
Padavka
To the left of the left edge of the north-northeast wall, up a shallow corner to a ledge.… Rock Climbing
6-
Padavka
Start 2m to the right of the left edge of the north-northeast wall. Left onto the arete… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7
Padavka
Almost in the middle of the wall, follow a crack through holes and up the wall to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7
Padavka
5 meters to the right of the left edge of the north-northeast wall. Up a short crack and… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7
Padavka
2 m to the right of the 'Pomlázková' wall, follow the fissure to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
7
Padavka
To the right of the 'Middle Crack', up the wall and a crack to the summit. Rock Climbing
6-
Padavka
To the right of the huge overhang, an overhanging corner/chimney, then a crack to a ring… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7
Padavka
Start 3m to the left of the huge overhang. Up the overhanging wall across three ledges to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7
Padavka
3 m to the left of the 'Long Arms' route, up the wall and a wide, several times… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6-
Malá soutěska
Through the center of the northeast wall via 3 bolts into a crack, then follow the crack… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
2
Golem
From the western side, from the base of the chimney between the massif and the tower,… Rock Climbing
4
Golem
From the large balcony, over the overhanging eastern edge to the top. Rock Climbing
4
Golem
From the west, through the chimney between the massif and the tower to the large balcony… Rock Climbing
6
Golem
On the left in the downhill (northern) side, through a corner crack to the balcony (ring)… Rock Climbing Fixed belay

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