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Climbing at Lusatian Mountains

3192 routes
5 areas
1–10 grades

The Lusatian Mountains lie in northern Bohemia on the border with Saxony, between Nový Bor, Jablonné v Podještědí and Jiřetín pod Jedlovou, and continue into the German Zittau Mountains. The protected landscape area is made of wooded hills, some of them volcanic bodies exhumed from Cretaceous sediments – such as Jezevčí vrch of sodalite trachyte, protected as a national nature reserve – with sandstone rock towns and viewpoints between them such as Popova skála, Krkavčí skály and the Sloní kameny natural monument.

Climbing is mainly on firm sandstone. The best-known crags are Horní skály (Obrvégry) near Rynoltice, also suitable for beginners, and Falkenstein with Sokolík and the Cvičná věž towers above Dolní Světlá. Many routes at Horní skály were first climbed more than a century ago, some in 1904. Chalk is banned in the Lusatian and Jizera Mountains climbing areas and the sandstone rules apply. For Horní skály, park about 3 km from Rynoltice along road 13 just before the village; for Falkenstein, park free at the upper end of Dolní Světlá and follow the green trail to the border barrier, then 300 m left to the towers. Climbing is possible most of the year; summer weekends get crowded.

Part of Czech Republic, Lusatian Mountains has 3192 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 10. Explore its 5 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Traditional Climbing, Sport Climbing.

Rules

On sandstone the ČHS sandstone rules apply – no chalk, no metal protection and dry rock only. On other rock the ČHS rules for Czech rock areas apply.

Much of the area lies in the Lusatian Mountains PLA. Check the ČHS crag database for any closures before you go.

2+
Široká věž
From the start of "Old Route" to the left and along the edge to a large balcony. "Old… Rock Climbing
5
Poslední věž
2+
Poslední věž
5+
Poslední věž
Fixed belay
2+
Poslední věž
2+
Poslední věž
On the left in the uphill wall over the overhang to the subpeak. Step over and wall n. v.
2+
Hladká věž
3
Poslední věž
2+
Hladká věž
4-
Hladká věž
4+
Hladká věž
6
Hladká věž
Fixed belay
7-/7
Hladká věž
Western edge over 2K n. v. Fixed belay
6
Hladká věž
Start with the right valley edge, diagonally left through a brittle wall to the 1st ring,… Fixed belay
3
Hladká věž
5+
Kamaradská věž
Fixed belay
2+
Hladká věž
Eastern chimney to Kamarádská věž and left to the large balcony. Wall with artificial…
6-
Kamaradská věž
Fixed belay
2+
Kamaradská věž
8/8+
Kamaradská věž
To the right of Válek in the bay, wall over 3BH and 1K n. v. Fixed belay
2+
Kamaradská věž
Chimney in the uphill wall n. v.
5
Buková věž
On the left side of the SE face, up the striped face to the left and via an overhanging… Danger
5+
Buková věž
Fixed belay
5+
Buková věž
Directly up the NE edge, over an overhang to the summit. Danger
5+
Buková věž
Start on the east edge, about 2 m up, then traverse right to the sharp NE edge and… Danger
6-
Buková věž
Fixed belay
4+
Buková věž
Up the blunt east edge (below the rappel point).
3
Buková věž
On the right side of the upper face, up the edge to a ledge, traverse right and up the…
5
Vyhlídková věž
Danger
5
Vyhlídková věž
Danger

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