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Climbing at Lusatian Mountains

3192 routes
5 areas
1–10 grades

The Lusatian Mountains lie in northern Bohemia on the border with Saxony, between Nový Bor, Jablonné v Podještědí and Jiřetín pod Jedlovou, and continue into the German Zittau Mountains. The protected landscape area is made of wooded hills, some of them volcanic bodies exhumed from Cretaceous sediments – such as Jezevčí vrch of sodalite trachyte, protected as a national nature reserve – with sandstone rock towns and viewpoints between them such as Popova skála, Krkavčí skály and the Sloní kameny natural monument.

Climbing is mainly on firm sandstone. The best-known crags are Horní skály (Obrvégry) near Rynoltice, also suitable for beginners, and Falkenstein with Sokolík and the Cvičná věž towers above Dolní Světlá. Many routes at Horní skály were first climbed more than a century ago, some in 1904. Chalk is banned in the Lusatian and Jizera Mountains climbing areas and the sandstone rules apply. For Horní skály, park about 3 km from Rynoltice along road 13 just before the village; for Falkenstein, park free at the upper end of Dolní Světlá and follow the green trail to the border barrier, then 300 m left to the towers. Climbing is possible most of the year; summer weekends get crowded.

Part of Czech Republic, Lusatian Mountains has 3192 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 10. Explore its 5 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Traditional Climbing, Sport Climbing.

Rules

On sandstone the ČHS sandstone rules apply – no chalk, no metal protection and dry rock only. On other rock the ČHS rules for Czech rock areas apply.

Much of the area lies in the Lusatian Mountains PLA. Check the ČHS crag database for any closures before you go.

3
Olšová věž
On the right in the northeast side, from the balcony, climb the edge under the abseil… Rock Climbing
6
Olšová věž
Through the center of the overhanging wall via a bolt to the summit. Rock Climbing
8+/9-
Jeskyně
Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6
Hladká věž
Start on the right overhanging edge, diagonally left through a brittle wall to the 1st… Rock Climbing
10
Kamarádská věž
From the start of Narcis to the 1st bolt of War in the Gulf and that to the summit Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
8/8+
Kamarádská věž
To the right of War in the Gulf, climb the wall via 3 bolts and 1 Q to the abseil ring. Rock Climbing
7-/7
Hladká věž
Climb the west edge via 2 bolts to the summit. Rock Climbing
6
Buková věž
Rock Climbing
7-/7
Havran
By a prominent overhanging edge (bh, K) over the overhang (K) and a short, sloping wall … Rock Climbing
5
Buková věž
Climb the right-hand edge of the northwest face to the summit. Rock Climbing
7
Buková věž
Directly up the NE edge over the overhang to the summit. Rock Climbing
3
Buková věž
Start on the wall to the left near the west edge, right behind the edge into the SW face… Rock Climbing
5
Buková věž
Up the east edge to below the rappelling point below the summit, then traverse right to… Rock Climbing
7
Buková věž
In the NW face, chimney-style, through three cracks to the right and up to the summit. Rock Climbing
7
Buková věž
Start on the east edge, about 2 m up, then traverse right to the sharp NE edge and… Rock Climbing
2+
Uhlířská věž
From the SW, over steps.
4+
5+
Přeskoková
Fixed belay
4-
Přeskoková
2+
Přeskoková
5+
Přeskoková
Fixed belay Danger
2+
Přeskoková
5
Přeskoková
Fixed belay Danger
2+
Přeskoková
2+
Přeskoková
?
Přeskoková
2+
Hříbek
In the lower wall to the rock face and the wall to the right of the eastern edge up.
3
Žofie
2+
Žofie
From the highest point of the plateau side to the right, along the wall with artificial…

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