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Climbing at Lusatian Mountains

3192 routes
5 areas
1–10 grades

The Lusatian Mountains lie in northern Bohemia on the border with Saxony, between Nový Bor, Jablonné v Podještědí and Jiřetín pod Jedlovou, and continue into the German Zittau Mountains. The protected landscape area is made of wooded hills, some of them volcanic bodies exhumed from Cretaceous sediments – such as Jezevčí vrch of sodalite trachyte, protected as a national nature reserve – with sandstone rock towns and viewpoints between them such as Popova skála, Krkavčí skály and the Sloní kameny natural monument.

Climbing is mainly on firm sandstone. The best-known crags are Horní skály (Obrvégry) near Rynoltice, also suitable for beginners, and Falkenstein with Sokolík and the Cvičná věž towers above Dolní Světlá. Many routes at Horní skály were first climbed more than a century ago, some in 1904. Chalk is banned in the Lusatian and Jizera Mountains climbing areas and the sandstone rules apply. For Horní skály, park about 3 km from Rynoltice along road 13 just before the village; for Falkenstein, park free at the upper end of Dolní Světlá and follow the green trail to the border barrier, then 300 m left to the towers. Climbing is possible most of the year; summer weekends get crowded.

Part of Czech Republic, Lusatian Mountains has 3192 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 10. Explore its 5 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Traditional Climbing, Sport Climbing.

Rules

On sandstone the ČHS sandstone rules apply – no chalk, no metal protection and dry rock only. On other rock the ČHS rules for Czech rock areas apply.

Much of the area lies in the Lusatian Mountains PLA. Check the ČHS crag database for any closures before you go.

Přeskok
Kužel
From the massif (to the right of "Old Route") jump to the top. Rock Climbing
4-
Kužel
By chimney from the NW outwards upwards, with a step across and up the wall to the top.
5
Kužel
In the center of the NW wall, up the wall over the ledge to the top. Rock Climbing
4+
Kužel
By chimney from the east between the tower and the massif outwards upwards and left to… Rock Climbing
5+
Kužel
Along the left valley edge from the left onto the ledge. Right through the receding gully… Rock Climbing
4+
Kužel
To the right of the start of the NW chimney, along the edge directly to the top. Rock Climbing
6-
Kužel
Along the valley edge briefly upwards and left to the ledge to the ring. In the center of… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
3
Kužel
By chimney from the east between the tower and the massif to the step across. Rock Climbing
6-
Kužel
Along the valley edge diagonally right to the ring in the center of the wall and… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
2+
Kužel
On the left in the massif, descend through the crack to the large balcony. Step across… Rock Climbing
7-/7
Praděd (Felsvater)
Near the left edge of the southeast wall, up the wall and short cracks, later right to… Fixed belay
2
Praděd (Felsvater)
From the west, a wide chimney in the corner to a large balcony. Crack to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
4-
Železná stěna
7-/7
Žlutá stěna
On the left in the smooth downhill face, near the edge, over 4 bolts to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
10
Žlutá stěna
Left of the start of Haitinger (Medikament) along the edge over the bolt and then via the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7
Železná stěna
The left downhill (southwest) edge to the right to the bolt. Through the face to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Žlutá stěna
The right downhill (southeast) edge over the overhang and traverse right to the 1st bolt.… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
8/8+
Žlutá stěna
About 3m right of the yellow crack, overhanging face to the 1st bolt. From the left to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
8/8+
Žlutá stěna
Via the Medikament route to its 3rd bolt. Through the face left to the 4th bolt and… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
8/8+
Žlutá stěna
About 3m right of the Rotpunkt route, a fine crack in a shallow corner to the 1st bolt.… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7-/7
Žlutá stěna
In the middle of the smooth downhill face, a hairline crack to the 1st bolt. Through the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6+/7-
Žlutá stěna
From the 1st bolt, through the face to the crack and to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7
Žlutá stěna
On the right in the east face, a crack about 6m up. Along the narrow ledge to the right… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
8
Žlutá stěna
Through the center of the east face to the bolt. Slightly to the left past the 2nd bolt… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
8-/8
Žlutá stěna
Right of Svatební hrana (Wedding Edge), through the face over 3 bolts, then right with a… Fixed belay
9
Žlutá stěna
Left of Dívčí cesta (Girl's Route), slab climb over 3K to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
2
Punťa
From the upper side, to the right around the northwest edge to Kiefer. Up the wall to the… Rock Climbing
2
Punťa
Northwest edge to the summit. Rock Climbing
7
Žlutá stěna
All the way to the right in the east face to the bolt and with a smooth face to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6-
Punťa
Along the south edge to the 1st ring, to the left over small chimneys to the 2nd ring,… Rock Climbing Fixed belay

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