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Climbing at Lusatian Mountains

3192 routes
5 areas
1–10 grades

The Lusatian Mountains lie in northern Bohemia on the border with Saxony, between Nový Bor, Jablonné v Podještědí and Jiřetín pod Jedlovou, and continue into the German Zittau Mountains. The protected landscape area is made of wooded hills, some of them volcanic bodies exhumed from Cretaceous sediments – such as Jezevčí vrch of sodalite trachyte, protected as a national nature reserve – with sandstone rock towns and viewpoints between them such as Popova skála, Krkavčí skály and the Sloní kameny natural monument.

Climbing is mainly on firm sandstone. The best-known crags are Horní skály (Obrvégry) near Rynoltice, also suitable for beginners, and Falkenstein with Sokolík and the Cvičná věž towers above Dolní Světlá. Many routes at Horní skály were first climbed more than a century ago, some in 1904. Chalk is banned in the Lusatian and Jizera Mountains climbing areas and the sandstone rules apply. For Horní skály, park about 3 km from Rynoltice along road 13 just before the village; for Falkenstein, park free at the upper end of Dolní Světlá and follow the green trail to the border barrier, then 300 m left to the towers. Climbing is possible most of the year; summer weekends get crowded.

Part of Czech Republic, Lusatian Mountains has 3192 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 10. Explore its 5 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Traditional Climbing, Sport Climbing.

Rules

On sandstone the ČHS sandstone rules apply – no chalk, no metal protection and dry rock only. On other rock the ČHS rules for Czech rock areas apply.

Much of the area lies in the Lusatian Mountains PLA. Check the ČHS crag database for any closures before you go.

6-
Punťa
Along the south edge to the 1st ring, to the left over small chimneys to the 2nd ring,… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
1
Punťa
Up the upper (northeast) overhanging face to the summit. (Artificial holds were used on… Rock Climbing
7
Punťa
In the corner between the yellow face and the tower, up a crack to under the second roof… Rock Climbing
6
Větrná věž
In the valley face, to the left from the gully between the Matterhorn and the Windy Tower… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
8
Větrná věž
Through the center of the valley face directly past 2 rings to the ring of the route … Rock Climbing Fixed belay
8
Větrná věž
Up the right (south) valley edge for about 20m. Traverse left to the middle of the face… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6-
Větrná věž
From the ring, to the right up the chimney crack to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
2
Větrná věž
Up the right upper (north) edge to the summit. Rock Climbing
2
Větrná věž
From the massif (NW) jump or step across (I) n. v.
5
Matterhorn (Grossvater, König-Ludwigs-Kopf)
From the massif on the northeast side, descend left to the lowest large balcony. An… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6-
Tvář
The left part of the massif, a corner (BH) to a balcony and the wall over 2BH to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5
Matterhorn (Grossvater, König-Ludwigs-Kopf)
From the massif on the northeast side, an overhang to the right into a short crack and… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
2
Šmudla
From the northern foreland, an overhang and to the left on the north side up the wall to… Rock Climbing
6-
Šmudla
Up the center of the south face via 2 bolts to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6-
Tvář
In the right part of the deep corner between the massif and the block, a chimney (bolt)… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7
Tvář
From the right edge of the wall diagonally left into the corner. Through it and the crack… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
2
Šmudla
Up the right (northeastern) plateau edge to the summit. Rock Climbing
3
Skokan
Up the plateau's (southeastern) edge over a large balcony to the summit. Rock Climbing
4
Skokan
NE edge to the summit Rock Climbing
6
Melzerova věž
At the right (NE) edge of the plateau, go up and traverse right along the ledge, then… Rock Climbing Textile belay Danger +1
2
Skokan
Up the center of the stepped south face to the summit. Rock Climbing
4
Skokan
Up the center of the north face, then follow the crack to the summit. Rock Climbing
7
Vyhlídková věž
Through the center of the east wall Rock Climbing
7
Přeskoková
From the northeast edge, right along the crack to the bolt. Left to the fissure and that… Rock Climbing
7
Poslední panenka
Overhanging wall via a bolt and slightly to the right n. v. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Danger +1
5
Olšová věž
On the west edge, traverse right through the wall to the south edge and that to the… Rock Climbing
4
Olšová věž
From the start of Stará cesta on the NE side, go left to the E edge and via the overhang… Rock Climbing
5
Olšová věž
From the base of the E edge, climb over the overhang to the summit. Rock Climbing
6
Olšová věž
V. Krycnar Along the right overhanging edge to the hole (piton) and traverse left to the… Rock Climbing
6
Olšová věž
Climb the west edge directly to the summit. Rock Climbing

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