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Climbing at Lusatian Mountains

3192 routes
5 areas
1–10 grades

The Lusatian Mountains lie in northern Bohemia on the border with Saxony, between Nový Bor, Jablonné v Podještědí and Jiřetín pod Jedlovou, and continue into the German Zittau Mountains. The protected landscape area is made of wooded hills, some of them volcanic bodies exhumed from Cretaceous sediments – such as Jezevčí vrch of sodalite trachyte, protected as a national nature reserve – with sandstone rock towns and viewpoints between them such as Popova skála, Krkavčí skály and the Sloní kameny natural monument.

Climbing is mainly on firm sandstone. The best-known crags are Horní skály (Obrvégry) near Rynoltice, also suitable for beginners, and Falkenstein with Sokolík and the Cvičná věž towers above Dolní Světlá. Many routes at Horní skály were first climbed more than a century ago, some in 1904. Chalk is banned in the Lusatian and Jizera Mountains climbing areas and the sandstone rules apply. For Horní skály, park about 3 km from Rynoltice along road 13 just before the village; for Falkenstein, park free at the upper end of Dolní Světlá and follow the green trail to the border barrier, then 300 m left to the towers. Climbing is possible most of the year; summer weekends get crowded.

Part of Czech Republic, Lusatian Mountains has 3192 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 10. Explore its 5 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Traditional Climbing, Sport Climbing.

Rules

On sandstone the ČHS sandstone rules apply – no chalk, no metal protection and dry rock only. On other rock the ČHS rules for Czech rock areas apply.

Much of the area lies in the Lusatian Mountains PLA. Check the ČHS crag database for any closures before you go.

7
Zapomenutá věž
On the left side of the north face, traverse left to the edge on the balcony. Left from… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
4-
Zapomenutá věž
6
Zapomenutá věž
In the downhill southern wall, through a gully and wide crack to a large balcony. Then up… Rock Climbing
5+
Zapomenutá věž
On the right side of the downhill (eastern) side, directly up the wall to the ring. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6-
Masiv u Turka
On the right side of the valley, up the wall over the ring to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7
Zapomenutá věž
From the right part of the uphill wall, traverse left and up the crack over the ring to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5
Turecká hlava
On the left in the uphill wall, follow the crack under the large overhang. Along the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Trpaslík
On the left on the uphill side, over the small overhang. and up the wall as above.
4
Trpaslík
Follow the northeast edge to the summit. Rock Climbing
2
Trpaslík
On the uphill side, over the overhang to the summit. Rock Climbing
3
Trpaslík
Through the center of the V wall, follow the crack to the tree, then as above.
7
Lebka
On the left side of the valley wall, follow the edge upwards for about 15 meters, then 3m… Rock Climbing
7
Lebka
Follow the valley route to the beginning of the traverse. Then 2m upwards (ring) and… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7
Lebka
On the right side of the valley, follow the rounded edge over the ring to the large… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
4
Lebka
From the large eastern balcony, follow the crack and edge over the overhang to the summit. Rock Climbing
5
Lebka
From the valley side, follow the eastern edge over the overhang, then left to the edge… Rock Climbing
6-
Lebka
In the middle of the valley wall, in the corner, go up the wall under the overhang (ring)… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
2
Lebka
Northern edge to the top Rock Climbing
3
Lebka
From the large eastern balcony to the right of the Werichovka route, a short northeastern… Rock Climbing
3
Lebka
From the balcony in the southwest edged over the overhang to the top Rock Climbing
2
Lebka
Through the center of the northwest wall to the top (Artificial steps used in the route.) Rock Climbing
2
Hraběnka
On the northeast corner from the balcony along the rock steps to the summit. Rock Climbing
4
Hraběnka
In the downhill side, chimney in the corner, later crack to the balcony. Easy path to the… Rock Climbing
6
Hraběnka
In the downhill wall, a wide crack over the ring to the southeast foreland and the Old… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
2
Hraběnka
From the southeast foreland along the rock steps to the summit. Rock Climbing
6-
Soudek
Start on the left in the north wall and traverse right to the center of the wall. Left to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
4
Kočka (Strážce)
In the southeast wall, on the right to the summit. Rock Climbing
7
Soudek
From the southwest, an overhanging wall to the ring. Wall from the right to the summit. Rock Climbing
2+
Soudek
6-
Soudek
Overhanging (western) downhill edge to the ring and wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay

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