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Climbing at Lusatian Mountains

3192 routes
5 areas
1–10 grades

The Lusatian Mountains lie in northern Bohemia on the border with Saxony, between Nový Bor, Jablonné v Podještědí and Jiřetín pod Jedlovou, and continue into the German Zittau Mountains. The protected landscape area is made of wooded hills, some of them volcanic bodies exhumed from Cretaceous sediments – such as Jezevčí vrch of sodalite trachyte, protected as a national nature reserve – with sandstone rock towns and viewpoints between them such as Popova skála, Krkavčí skály and the Sloní kameny natural monument.

Climbing is mainly on firm sandstone. The best-known crags are Horní skály (Obrvégry) near Rynoltice, also suitable for beginners, and Falkenstein with Sokolík and the Cvičná věž towers above Dolní Světlá. Many routes at Horní skály were first climbed more than a century ago, some in 1904. Chalk is banned in the Lusatian and Jizera Mountains climbing areas and the sandstone rules apply. For Horní skály, park about 3 km from Rynoltice along road 13 just before the village; for Falkenstein, park free at the upper end of Dolní Světlá and follow the green trail to the border barrier, then 300 m left to the towers. Climbing is possible most of the year; summer weekends get crowded.

Part of Czech Republic, Lusatian Mountains has 3192 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 10. Explore its 5 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Traditional Climbing, Sport Climbing.

Rules

On sandstone the ČHS sandstone rules apply – no chalk, no metal protection and dry rock only. On other rock the ČHS rules for Czech rock areas apply.

Much of the area lies in the Lusatian Mountains PLA. Check the ČHS crag database for any closures before you go.

7
Petrův kámen
On the right downhill wall, over an overhang and a crack to the ring. Crack on the right… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
Přeskok
Petrův kámen
From the large fore rock of the Old Route, jump left to a large balcony. Along the rock… Rock Climbing
3
Zákulisí
Chimney to the right of the Bláznova ukolébavka route to the summit. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Vertical wall +1
6
Zákulisí
Along the prominent edge via 2K to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +1
6-
Zákulisí
Through the center of the wall via 2K to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +1
2
Zákulisí
Corner crack to the right of the OK style route to the summit. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Vertical wall
6-
Strážce Luciina dolu
To the right of the left downhill edge, along the crack to the recess. Traverse left… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +3
5
Skalní brána
From the beginning of the caves, along the rib to the crack-corner and further n. t. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +3
7
Puklý roh
Crack (K) n. t. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +3
4
Hříbek
Overhanging West face (clock) along the crack to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Hříbek
From the south, up the stepped wall to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay
7
Hříbek
Starting from the valley, over the overhang to the 1st ring, with a pull-up over the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
10
Panenská skála (Pirát)
Through the wall and along the southwest edge to the top. Route on sun Vertical wall
6
Čertova skála (Škuner)
Through the center of the NW face with holes to the ring and a smooth face to the ledge.… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
3
Čertova skála (Škuner)
From the SE along a crack (artificial steps) to the base. By the chimney to the saddle… Rock Climbing Textile belay
4-
Rynoltická věž
At the northeast sharp edge, where the tower is the lowest, up the chopped holds … Rock Climbing Textile belay
4+
Hradby
Straight up the gully to the bolt, then slightly right to the clocks and to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5+
Hradby
Right of Koloběžka, up the gully and crack to the bolt, in an arc from the left to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
3
Zelený kámen
From the top edge upwards to the right, cross the Variant St. c., along the overgrown…
2+
Zelený kámen
6
Zelený kámen
In the center of the SE wall, up the left gully and crack to the ledge. Directly over the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
2
Zelený kámen
Right in the south side through the chimney to the balcony and over the step to the top.
2+
Zelený kámen
From the top side, upwards to the right traverse to the balcony St. c.
5
Borová věž
Through the center of the overhanging (E) wall to the top. Rock Climbing
5+
Borová věž
Along the overhanging SE edge to the top. Rock Climbing
3
Borová věž
Along the NE edge and to the right, via a small crack to the balcony to sl. K n.v. Rock Climbing Textile belay Vertical wall
5
Borová věž
In the left part of the downhill wall, directly to the top. Rock Climbing
3
Dvojče
About 4m to the right of the Old Road, up the wall to the top. Rock Climbing
2+
Borová věž
From the S wall, diagonally to the right to the top. Rock Climbing
2+
Dvojče
On the right in the W wall, via a crack-chimney to the top. Rock Climbing

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