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Climbing at Lusatian Mountains

3192 routes
5 areas
1–10 grades

The Lusatian Mountains lie in northern Bohemia on the border with Saxony, between Nový Bor, Jablonné v Podještědí and Jiřetín pod Jedlovou, and continue into the German Zittau Mountains. The protected landscape area is made of wooded hills, some of them volcanic bodies exhumed from Cretaceous sediments – such as Jezevčí vrch of sodalite trachyte, protected as a national nature reserve – with sandstone rock towns and viewpoints between them such as Popova skála, Krkavčí skály and the Sloní kameny natural monument.

Climbing is mainly on firm sandstone. The best-known crags are Horní skály (Obrvégry) near Rynoltice, also suitable for beginners, and Falkenstein with Sokolík and the Cvičná věž towers above Dolní Světlá. Many routes at Horní skály were first climbed more than a century ago, some in 1904. Chalk is banned in the Lusatian and Jizera Mountains climbing areas and the sandstone rules apply. For Horní skály, park about 3 km from Rynoltice along road 13 just before the village; for Falkenstein, park free at the upper end of Dolní Světlá and follow the green trail to the border barrier, then 300 m left to the towers. Climbing is possible most of the year; summer weekends get crowded.

Part of Czech Republic, Lusatian Mountains has 3192 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 10. Explore its 5 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Traditional Climbing, Sport Climbing.

Rules

On sandstone the ČHS sandstone rules apply – no chalk, no metal protection and dry rock only. On other rock the ČHS rules for Czech rock areas apply.

Much of the area lies in the Lusatian Mountains PLA. Check the ČHS crag database for any closures before you go.

3
Borová věž
From the uphill side over the overhang and by the edge (hewn steps) to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Borová věž
Up the valley wall over the ring from the left (VI) or from the right (VII) to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
2
Malý rytíř
Via a short uphill wall n.v. Rock Climbing
7
Malý rytíř
From the ledge, through the center of the overhanging valley wall, directly over the BH n… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends +1
2+
Padavka
Up the overhanging face, or the overhang from the slope and a small wall n. v. Rock Climbing
4-
Padavka
Up the slabby wall below the rappel n. v. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Laid wall
3
Padavka
Briefly up the uphill edge, and above the overhang from the left up the slab, or directly… Rock Climbing
6+/7-
Rudolf Kögler
In the left part of the wall, up the chimney and wall to the corner. Up the wall and… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +1
4-
Párátko
Descend from the massif and traverse n. v. Rock Climbing
2
Párátko
Jump across from the massif n. v. Rock Climbing
6
Párátko
Up the narrow uphill wall n. v. Rock Climbing
3
Párátko
Up the chimney between the tower and the massif n. v. Rock Climbing
5+
Párátko
From the terrace, straight up the center of the E wall n. v. Rock Climbing
2+
Párátko
Down the edge and to the right of it n. v. Rock Climbing
3
Párátko
From the start, traverse right across the wall n. v. Rock Climbing
8-/8
Památník písemnictví
Up the edge and overhang past the bolt directly n. t. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
5
Odpadlík
From E wide fissure to the balcony and to (K) the "Radegast" route and that n. v. Rock Climbing
2
Odpadlík
Jump down from the center of the massif n. v. Rock Climbing
7+/8-
Odpadlík
Down the E edge n. v. Rock Climbing
2+
Odpadlík
From the right side of the massif, descend to a rounded ledge, overhanging n. v. Rock Climbing
6+/7-
Odpadlík
Through the center of the lower wall directly to (K) the "Radegast" route. Left wall and… Rock Climbing
2
Odpadlík
Descend from the massif on the left, with an step over n. v. Rock Climbing
6
Odpadlík
Narrow SW wall over notches (loop) and along the left edge n. v. Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Odpadlík
Chimney between the tower and the massif n. v. Rock Climbing
5
Odpadlík
From the fissure to the balcony (K) and fissure n. v. Rock Climbing
5+
Bärenstein
In the middle of the NE wall with a diagonal recess n. v. Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing
6+/7-
Sprostý dlaždič
Through the center of the lower wall n. v. Rock Climbing Route on sun Vertical wall
6-
Sprostý dlaždič
On the right side of the E wall directly n. v. Rock Climbing Vertical wall
7+/8-
Sprostý dlaždič
In the right part of the lower wall directly n. v. Rock Climbing
8-/8
Ponorka
With the S wall to BH and to the left through the gully n. t. Rock Climbing

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