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Climbing at Lusatian Mountains

3192 routes
5 areas
1–10 grades

The Lusatian Mountains lie in northern Bohemia on the border with Saxony, between Nový Bor, Jablonné v Podještědí and Jiřetín pod Jedlovou, and continue into the German Zittau Mountains. The protected landscape area is made of wooded hills, some of them volcanic bodies exhumed from Cretaceous sediments – such as Jezevčí vrch of sodalite trachyte, protected as a national nature reserve – with sandstone rock towns and viewpoints between them such as Popova skála, Krkavčí skály and the Sloní kameny natural monument.

Climbing is mainly on firm sandstone. The best-known crags are Horní skály (Obrvégry) near Rynoltice, also suitable for beginners, and Falkenstein with Sokolík and the Cvičná věž towers above Dolní Světlá. Many routes at Horní skály were first climbed more than a century ago, some in 1904. Chalk is banned in the Lusatian and Jizera Mountains climbing areas and the sandstone rules apply. For Horní skály, park about 3 km from Rynoltice along road 13 just before the village; for Falkenstein, park free at the upper end of Dolní Světlá and follow the green trail to the border barrier, then 300 m left to the towers. Climbing is possible most of the year; summer weekends get crowded.

Part of Czech Republic, Lusatian Mountains has 3192 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 10. Explore its 5 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Traditional Climbing, Sport Climbing.

Rules

On sandstone the ČHS sandstone rules apply – no chalk, no metal protection and dry rock only. On other rock the ČHS rules for Czech rock areas apply.

Much of the area lies in the Lusatian Mountains PLA. Check the ČHS crag database for any closures before you go.

6
Žulík
In the middle of the valley (northern) wall over small overhangs to the ledge and… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
6
Žulík
Through the indentation in the eastern wall to the summit.
6-
Žulík
Along the edge to the summit. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
6
Žulík
Along the overhanging valley edge (bolt) to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +1
2+
Růže
Through the chimney between both blocks to the summit. Rock Climbing
2
Růže
Through the valley chimney to the summit. Rock Climbing
6
Janovický kámen
To the left up the valley wall and a rib to the ring, up the wall to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7
Janovický kámen
To the right up the valley wall and a crack to the ring, up the wall to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7
Janovický kámen
Along the NE edge via a ring to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
2
Janovický kámen
Along the S edge, higher up the wall (artificial steps) to the summit. Rock Climbing
2+
Dvojitá věž
To the left on the valley wall along the crack to a large platform and up the chimney to… Rock Climbing Textile belay
4+
Dvojitá věž
Via the detached pillar on the valley wall to the summit (sling). Left below the vertical… Rock Climbing Textile belay
2+
Dvojitá věž
Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Dvojitá věž
Up the valley wall along ledges to the ring, slightly left and directly to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Dvojitá věž
Up the valley's curved edge via a ring to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5
Dvojitá věž
Rock Climbing Textile belay
5+
Dvojitá věž
Up the narrow E wall under the overhang, below it to the left onto a ledge and over the… Rock Climbing
2
Dvojitá věž
To the right on the SE side onto the fore-rock (artificial steps), left and up the… Rock Climbing
3
Čertovy kameny
Along the rounded ridge to the West subsidiary summit. Then by stepping over to the main… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6-
Křižník
Rock Climbing Textile belay
4-
Čertovy kameny
From the right to the West edge and along it to the West subsidiary summit. Then by… Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Čertovy kameny
On the left side of the North face upwards and diagonally left to the West subsidiary… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Čertovy kameny
On the right side of the North face to the West subsidiary summit and by jumping to the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Čertovy kameny
Through the center of the South face to the West subsidiary summit and by stepping over… Rock Climbing Textile belay
4-
Čertovy kameny
Upwards on the right side of the valley wall and along the rounded edge to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
2+
Čertovy kameny
Via the short North face to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Čertovy kameny
Through the center of the South face to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
2
Čertovy kameny
Through the chimney between the peaks to the West subsidiary summit and by stepping over… Rock Climbing Textile belay
5+
Čertovy kameny
Directly to the summit on the left side of the North face. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5+
Punťa
Up the overhanging wall along the left valley edge to a ledge (sling) and higher over the… Rock Climbing

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