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Climbing at Lusatian Mountains

3192 routes
5 areas
1–10 grades

The Lusatian Mountains lie in northern Bohemia on the border with Saxony, between Nový Bor, Jablonné v Podještědí and Jiřetín pod Jedlovou, and continue into the German Zittau Mountains. The protected landscape area is made of wooded hills, some of them volcanic bodies exhumed from Cretaceous sediments – such as Jezevčí vrch of sodalite trachyte, protected as a national nature reserve – with sandstone rock towns and viewpoints between them such as Popova skála, Krkavčí skály and the Sloní kameny natural monument.

Climbing is mainly on firm sandstone. The best-known crags are Horní skály (Obrvégry) near Rynoltice, also suitable for beginners, and Falkenstein with Sokolík and the Cvičná věž towers above Dolní Světlá. Many routes at Horní skály were first climbed more than a century ago, some in 1904. Chalk is banned in the Lusatian and Jizera Mountains climbing areas and the sandstone rules apply. For Horní skály, park about 3 km from Rynoltice along road 13 just before the village; for Falkenstein, park free at the upper end of Dolní Světlá and follow the green trail to the border barrier, then 300 m left to the towers. Climbing is possible most of the year; summer weekends get crowded.

Part of Czech Republic, Lusatian Mountains has 3192 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 10. Explore its 5 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Traditional Climbing, Sport Climbing.

Rules

On sandstone the ČHS sandstone rules apply – no chalk, no metal protection and dry rock only. On other rock the ČHS rules for Czech rock areas apply.

Much of the area lies in the Lusatian Mountains PLA. Check the ČHS crag database for any closures before you go.

5
Kyklop
Via the concrete wall to the ledge and to the right along the sandy eye cautiously n. v… Rock Climbing
6
Mraveniště
Via the wide crack to the top. Rock Climbing
6-
Mraveniště
Via the crack to the end to the 1st BH, with a high step and along the wall to the 2nd BH… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5
Kyklop
By hopping/jumping up under the head, over the ring n. v - Route canceled by OVK decision… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
4+
Mařenka
To the ledge via the left edge. Rock Climbing
5+
Mařenka
Through the center of the wall along the small crack to the ledge and to the left. Rock Climbing
5
Mařenka
From the NW via the chimney to the block and directly to the summit. Rock Climbing
9
Mařenka
By the wall directly to the ring, along the edge to the ring of the "Šup tam" route and… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7
Mařenka
From the ramp, directly up the wall along the edge (ring) to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
3
Mařenka
By the plateau wall to the top.
5
Mařenka
Via the ramp diagonally left to the ring and from the right to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
3
Mařenka
Left of the Old Path, by the wall and the corner to the top.
6-
Jeníček
By the wall to the notch and through it to the ring. Up, right beyond the edge to the 2nd… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6+/7-
Jeníček
Through the left part of the wall (2 rings) to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
2+
Jeníček
Along the small wall at the edge to the summit. Rock Climbing
6+/7-
Jeníček
Along the NW edge over the ring. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
2
Jeníček
On the S side, via a ramp sloping away to the left and a step to the top.
5
Jeníček
Through the crack over the overhang to the summit. Rock Climbing
6+/7-
Jeníček
From the 2nd ring directly up the wall over the 3rd ring. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6-
Jeníček
By the wall to the ring, by the diagonal crack to the left (2nd ring) to the edge and… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5
Ježibaba
From the boulder below the NW edge with a swing to the summit. Rock Climbing
4
Ježibaba
Through the upper notch on the E edge to the summit. Rock Climbing
5
Ježibaba
Through the left part of the wall along the holes directly into the notch and to the… Rock Climbing
4
Ježibaba
In the N wall through a notch diagonally to the right (clockwise) and to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
4
Ježibaba
Along the western edge with a swing to the summit. Rock Climbing
2+
Ježibaba
To the left on the S side by the wall to the left and by the W edge to the top.
2+
Chaloupka
Along the west edge, from left upwards n. v.
4-
Trilobit
Along the valley wall n. v.
4-
Trilobit
Along the valley edge n. v.
4+
Trilobit
Through the middle of the vertical East wall n. v.

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