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Climbing at Lusatian Mountains

3192 routes
5 areas
1–10 grades

The Lusatian Mountains lie in northern Bohemia on the border with Saxony, between Nový Bor, Jablonné v Podještědí and Jiřetín pod Jedlovou, and continue into the German Zittau Mountains. The protected landscape area is made of wooded hills, some of them volcanic bodies exhumed from Cretaceous sediments – such as Jezevčí vrch of sodalite trachyte, protected as a national nature reserve – with sandstone rock towns and viewpoints between them such as Popova skála, Krkavčí skály and the Sloní kameny natural monument.

Climbing is mainly on firm sandstone. The best-known crags are Horní skály (Obrvégry) near Rynoltice, also suitable for beginners, and Falkenstein with Sokolík and the Cvičná věž towers above Dolní Světlá. Many routes at Horní skály were first climbed more than a century ago, some in 1904. Chalk is banned in the Lusatian and Jizera Mountains climbing areas and the sandstone rules apply. For Horní skály, park about 3 km from Rynoltice along road 13 just before the village; for Falkenstein, park free at the upper end of Dolní Světlá and follow the green trail to the border barrier, then 300 m left to the towers. Climbing is possible most of the year; summer weekends get crowded.

Part of Czech Republic, Lusatian Mountains has 3192 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 10. Explore its 5 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Traditional Climbing, Sport Climbing.

Rules

On sandstone the ČHS sandstone rules apply – no chalk, no metal protection and dry rock only. On other rock the ČHS rules for Czech rock areas apply.

Much of the area lies in the Lusatian Mountains PLA. Check the ČHS crag database for any closures before you go.

2+
Ostrorep
To the right in the South wall near the rib, up the wall n. v.
6-
Trilobit
Along the sharp edge n. v.
?
Ostrorep
To the left in the narrow East wall to BH, further n. v.
?
Ostrorep
To the right in the narrow east wall to BH and further n. v.
4-
Ostrorep
Left on the southwest side, right of the pine wall n. v. Rock Climbing Route on sun Vertical wall
2
Ostrorep
Via the ledge through the south wall to the NW corner. To the left through a crack n. v.
6
Ropucha
Crack right under the overhang, left under the gully, through it to the ledge, traverse… Rock Climbing
2
Ropucha
Squeezing through the crack-chimney hole to the top. Rock Climbing
3
Lev
Left edge of the plateau gully to the fore-rock, overhang and step to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay
2
Lev
From the plateau side via a chimney and right via a step to the top.
3
Včelí úl
Rocks of the Czech Republic, Czech Mountaineering Association database. Rock Climbing
4+
Vrabčí kámen/Babizny - východní vrchol
Up the South wall directly to the top. Rock Climbing
5
Vrabčí kámen/Babizny - východní vrchol
Up the SW edge directly to the top. Rock Climbing
2
Vrabčí kámen/Babizny - východní vrchol
Through the chimney between the towers (like Giant Chimney) and up the wall on the right… Rock Climbing
5
Vrabčí kámen/Babizny - východní vrchol
On the right in the East wall, over the ledge to the top. Rock Climbing
2
Vrabčí kámen/Babizny - východní vrchol
On the left in the North wall, over steps n. v.
5+
Vrabčí kámen/Babizny - východní vrchol
Up the SE edge to the top. Rock Climbing
5+
Vrabčí kámen/Babizny - západní vrchol
In the NW wall, along the crack to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay
Přeskok
Vrabčí kámen/Babizny - západní vrchol
Leap from the Eastern peak n. v. Rock Climbing
2+
Vrabčí kámen/Babizny - západní vrchol
Through the chimney between the towers to the platform. Left on the wall to the top. Rock Climbing
3
Vrabčí kámen/Babizny - západní vrchol
On the left in the NW wall, through the crack to the platform and via the Giant Chimney… Rock Climbing
4+
Vrabčí kámen/Babizny - západní vrchol
Up the South wall, over the overhang (piton) to the ledge and then to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
2+
Vrabčí kámen/Babizny - západní vrchol
From the platform traverse left and up the South wall to the top.
4-
Vrabčí kámen/Babizny - západní vrchol
Up the SW edge over the ledge to the top. (also, start up the wall on the left - E) Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Zdislavská
From the left to the northern edge and along it, n. v. (not viable/ no translation… Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Zdislavská
Through the middle of the NE wall via a crack, n. v. (not viable/ no translation possible…
3
Zdislavská
Along the western edge, n. v. (not viable/ no translation possible as it seems to be an… Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Zdislavská
Through the middle of the NW wall along a crack, n. v. (not viable/ no translation… Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Mezistěna
In the corner between the massif and the Small Tower Rock Climbing Textile belay

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