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Climbing at Lusatian Mountains

3192 routes
5 areas
1–10 grades

The Lusatian Mountains lie in northern Bohemia on the border with Saxony, between Nový Bor, Jablonné v Podještědí and Jiřetín pod Jedlovou, and continue into the German Zittau Mountains. The protected landscape area is made of wooded hills, some of them volcanic bodies exhumed from Cretaceous sediments – such as Jezevčí vrch of sodalite trachyte, protected as a national nature reserve – with sandstone rock towns and viewpoints between them such as Popova skála, Krkavčí skály and the Sloní kameny natural monument.

Climbing is mainly on firm sandstone. The best-known crags are Horní skály (Obrvégry) near Rynoltice, also suitable for beginners, and Falkenstein with Sokolík and the Cvičná věž towers above Dolní Světlá. Many routes at Horní skály were first climbed more than a century ago, some in 1904. Chalk is banned in the Lusatian and Jizera Mountains climbing areas and the sandstone rules apply. For Horní skály, park about 3 km from Rynoltice along road 13 just before the village; for Falkenstein, park free at the upper end of Dolní Světlá and follow the green trail to the border barrier, then 300 m left to the towers. Climbing is possible most of the year; summer weekends get crowded.

Part of Czech Republic, Lusatian Mountains has 3192 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 10. Explore its 5 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Traditional Climbing, Sport Climbing.

Rules

On sandstone the ČHS sandstone rules apply – no chalk, no metal protection and dry rock only. On other rock the ČHS rules for Czech rock areas apply.

Much of the area lies in the Lusatian Mountains PLA. Check the ČHS crag database for any closures before you go.

6
Mezistěna
To the right of MÁJOVÉ over the ledge and K n. t. Note: The ring was added during the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Mezistěna
Through the middle of the small wall over 2 rings to the top of the fore-rock. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5
Mezistěna
In the corner between the massif and the Small Tower Rock Climbing Textile belay
7
Vyhlídková (JZ věž)
Over steps and crack to the ring and overhang to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6-
Vyhlídková (JZ věž)
Start to the left of the Radegast route, along the gully under the overhang to the first… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
6-
Vyhlídková (JZ věž)
Along the edge to the point (added bolt), traverse left to the ring and up to the viewing… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
2+
Vyhlídková (JZ věž)
From the E edge traverse left to the terrace and up the wall n. v. Rock Climbing Textile belay
4+
Kámen dvou pánů
From the E saddle, up the wall over the overgrown ledge into the hole. By crack (slings)… Rock Climbing
2
Kámen dvou pánů
At the beginning of the St. c. gully, under the large block behind it and by step n. v.
2
Vyhlídková (JZ věž)
Through the middle of the upland side n. v. Rock Climbing Textile belay
0
Vyhlídková (JZ věž)
Rock Climbing
4+
Kámen dvou pánů
From the indistinct path under the S wall by crack, higher up by chimney and wall n. v. Rock Climbing
2+
Kámen dvou pánů
At the beginning of the St. c. gully, up onto the block and traverse to the top.
3
Mlýnské kameny
From NW between the subpeak and the peak to the right by chimney n. v. Rock Climbing Textile belay
4+
Dudlík
By the right valley (southern) edge n. v. Rock Climbing
2
Kámen dvou pánů
From NW by cleft and short wall n. v. Rock Climbing
2+
Dudlík
By the upland (N) edge n. v. Rock Climbing
5
Mlýnské kameny
Through the middle of the valley wall (in line with the ring) directly to the ring of the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5+
Mlýnské kameny
From the edge over the ring to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
Přeskok
Mlýnské kameny
From the upland side to the subpeak and jump to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay
2+
Mlýnské kameny
From SE to the left by chimney n. v. Rock Climbing Textile belay
2+
Mlýnské kameny
From the subpeak, descend to the left onto a ledge and traverse n. v. Rock Climbing Textile belay
4+
Mlýnské kameny
On the right in the valley wall to the ledge, traverse left to the hole (ring above it)… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4-
Mlýnské kameny
Through the middle of the SE wall to the balcony, higher up the S wall n. v. Rock Climbing Textile belay
2
Burgemeistrův žlab
Up the prominent grassy gully between sectors B and C to the summit Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Fixed belay +1
?
Masokombinát
Up the wall over a slight overhang to the summit - Incomplete Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
3
Epona
Up the narrow north face to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
2
Epona
Up the face from the east to the summit Rock Climbing Textile belay
4
Epona
Up the smooth west face to the summit Rock Climbing Textile belay
2
Epona
Up the south face to the summit Rock Climbing Textile belay

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