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Climbing at Lusatian Mountains

3192 routes
5 areas
1–10 grades

The Lusatian Mountains lie in northern Bohemia on the border with Saxony, between Nový Bor, Jablonné v Podještědí and Jiřetín pod Jedlovou, and continue into the German Zittau Mountains. The protected landscape area is made of wooded hills, some of them volcanic bodies exhumed from Cretaceous sediments – such as Jezevčí vrch of sodalite trachyte, protected as a national nature reserve – with sandstone rock towns and viewpoints between them such as Popova skála, Krkavčí skály and the Sloní kameny natural monument.

Climbing is mainly on firm sandstone. The best-known crags are Horní skály (Obrvégry) near Rynoltice, also suitable for beginners, and Falkenstein with Sokolík and the Cvičná věž towers above Dolní Světlá. Many routes at Horní skály were first climbed more than a century ago, some in 1904. Chalk is banned in the Lusatian and Jizera Mountains climbing areas and the sandstone rules apply. For Horní skály, park about 3 km from Rynoltice along road 13 just before the village; for Falkenstein, park free at the upper end of Dolní Světlá and follow the green trail to the border barrier, then 300 m left to the towers. Climbing is possible most of the year; summer weekends get crowded.

Part of Czech Republic, Lusatian Mountains has 3192 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 10. Explore its 5 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Traditional Climbing, Sport Climbing.

Rules

On sandstone the ČHS sandstone rules apply – no chalk, no metal protection and dry rock only. On other rock the ČHS rules for Czech rock areas apply.

Much of the area lies in the Lusatian Mountains PLA. Check the ČHS crag database for any closures before you go.

5
Neznámý terč
Start about 1.5 m to the left of the right edge of the SE wall, directly up into the hole… Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Neznámý terč
From the edge, overhang to the eastern edge and along it to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5+
Neznámý terč
Rock Climbing Danger
7/7+
Neznámý terč
Northern edge (2 Bh, ring) to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
5+
Neznámý terč
At the lowest point of the valley side on the southern edge, up the wall to the balcony… Rock Climbing Textile belay
Přeskok
Neznámý terč
Rock Climbing
5+
Neznámý terč
On the left in the NW wall, traverse right on a sloping crack, n.v. Rock Climbing Textile belay Danger +1
9
Neznámý terč
To the right of the Sunny Crack, up the wall to the right to the 1st ring, then to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
5
Neznámý terč
In the southwest side, up the crack to the balcony on the attached turret. Via the old… Rock Climbing Textile belay Spare Route
7
Neznámý terč
On the valley side, up the smooth southeast wall to the ring. Up the wall to the balcony… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Malý terč
meters to the right of the northern edge and directly up the wall to the summit. Rock Climbing
4
Malý terč
Northern edge to the top. Rock Climbing
5
Neznámý terč
From the large balcony on the southeast side, through a fissure into a crack. Rock Climbing Textile belay
2
Malý terč
At the eastern edge, up the wall to the summit. (artificial holds used in the route) Rock Climbing
4
Malý terč
On the left side of the southeast, overhang to the edge and then to the top. Rock Climbing
5+
Věž přátelství a míru (Freundschaftsturm)
Through the center of the northeast face over the overhang and right up the receding… Rock Climbing Danger
7
Věž přátelství a míru (Freundschaftsturm)
Between the Northeast face and the Old route, right to the bolt. Slightly right and up… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5+
Věž přátelství a míru (Freundschaftsturm)
Left of the start of the St. route (building) dK over the overhang up the fine wall… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6-
Věž přátelství a míru (Freundschaftsturm)
Through the center of the northwest face over 2 bolts to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7
Věž přátelství a míru (Freundschaftsturm)
From the right (northern) upland edge traverse right to the bolt. Directly over the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6-
Věž přátelství a míru (Freundschaftsturm)
Fixed belay
7+/8-
Věž přátelství a míru (Freundschaftsturm)
By the downhill route roughly 8 meters upwards and directly up the downhill face via 3… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5
Věž přátelství a míru (Freundschaftsturm)
In the western face, right of the overhanging corner, up the wall, later receding, to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
4+
Věž přátelství a míru (Freundschaftsturm)
From the block in the uphill face, left around the edge with a traverse, and left up the… Fixed belay
5
Věž přátelství a míru (Freundschaftsturm)
From the bolt 3m to the right and up the fine crack to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7
Věž přátelství a míru (Freundschaftsturm)
On the left in the southeast side, up the wall over the ledge to the bolt. Up the wall to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
4
Věž přátelství a míru (Freundschaftsturm)
By the left upland edge to the summit. Rock Climbing
?
Masiv u Tlouštíka
Downhill edge of the massif, right of Tlouštík, over 3 bolts and 2 BH to the top. Fixed belay
6
Masiv nad Klotyldou
On the left in the eastern wall, about 2m upwards and traverse right around the blunt… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
Přeskok
Klotylda
From the massif, descend by chimney to the platform and from there jump to the top. Rock Climbing

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