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Climbing at Lusatian Mountains

3192 routes
5 areas
1–10 grades

The Lusatian Mountains lie in northern Bohemia on the border with Saxony, between Nový Bor, Jablonné v Podještědí and Jiřetín pod Jedlovou, and continue into the German Zittau Mountains. The protected landscape area is made of wooded hills, some of them volcanic bodies exhumed from Cretaceous sediments – such as Jezevčí vrch of sodalite trachyte, protected as a national nature reserve – with sandstone rock towns and viewpoints between them such as Popova skála, Krkavčí skály and the Sloní kameny natural monument.

Climbing is mainly on firm sandstone. The best-known crags are Horní skály (Obrvégry) near Rynoltice, also suitable for beginners, and Falkenstein with Sokolík and the Cvičná věž towers above Dolní Světlá. Many routes at Horní skály were first climbed more than a century ago, some in 1904. Chalk is banned in the Lusatian and Jizera Mountains climbing areas and the sandstone rules apply. For Horní skály, park about 3 km from Rynoltice along road 13 just before the village; for Falkenstein, park free at the upper end of Dolní Světlá and follow the green trail to the border barrier, then 300 m left to the towers. Climbing is possible most of the year; summer weekends get crowded.

Part of Czech Republic, Lusatian Mountains has 3192 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 10. Explore its 5 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Traditional Climbing, Sport Climbing.

Rules

On sandstone the ČHS sandstone rules apply – no chalk, no metal protection and dry rock only. On other rock the ČHS rules for Czech rock areas apply.

Much of the area lies in the Lusatian Mountains PLA. Check the ČHS crag database for any closures before you go.

Přeskok
Klotylda
From the massif, descend by chimney to the platform and from there jump to the top. Rock Climbing
7
Klotylda
From the start of the Valley Route, left to the southeast edge and along it over the ring… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7
Klotylda
On the left in the valley wall, through the overhanging corner into the gully between the… Rock Climbing
8
Klotylda
Up the wall to the left of Old Route over 2 rings to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7
Klotylda
From the gully between the tower and the Slab Wall over the ring to the left to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7
Klotylda
Along the right valley edge about 3m upwards. Traverse left and up the brittle wall to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6
Klotylda
From the gully between the tower and the Slab Wall 4m to the right of Old Route, up the… Rock Climbing
1
Klotylda
Between the Massif above Klotylda and the tower by chimney, later along the northern edge… Rock Climbing
5+
Praděd (Felsvater)
Through the overhanging corner in the valley wall directly into the crack.
7
Praděd (Felsvater)
In the valley wall to the left of the overhanging corner, over the overhang and right… Rock Climbing
6-
Praděd (Felsvater)
Through the center of the upland (northeast) face, a crack over the bolt to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6-
Praděd (Felsvater)
Finished via the route to the gully between the iron massif and the tower. From the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6-
Praděd (Felsvater)
In the northeast face, left of Vosí spára (Wasp Crack), a corner crack over the bolt… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5+
Praděd (Felsvater)
From the bolt of Dokončené cesty (Finished Route), to the right. Over the overhang and… Fixed belay
4+
Praděd (Felsvater)
From W over the block or SE gully to the upland face, to the right along the edge…
7
Praděd (Felsvater)
In the valley wall to the right of the overhanging corner, the wall slightly to the right… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6+/7-
Praděd (Felsvater)
From the eastern edge, traverse left to the 1st bolt. Wall on the right side over the 2nd… Fixed belay
6
Praděd (Felsvater)
From the southwest, face and slope to the gully between the iron face and the tower. On… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7
Praděd (Felsvater)
From the bolt of Dokončená cesta (Finished Route), to the right. Over the overhang and… Rock Climbing
4+
Praděd (Felsvater)
1m to the right from the chimney crack to the balcony.
4+
Praděd (Felsvater)
On the left in the downhill face, a chimney between the tower and the block to the…
8/8+
Matterhorn (Grossvater, König-Ludwigs-Kopf)
In the northwest face of the foreland, to the left of the right short edge of the pillar,… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5
Matterhorn (Grossvater, König-Ludwigs-Kopf)
Start as for the Valley Route, then directly up the chimney to the large balcony and via… Rock Climbing Textile belay
5+
Matterhorn (Grossvater, König-Ludwigs-Kopf)
Via the Kamarádská Route up to under the roof-like overhang. Here to the right onto the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6-
Matterhorn (Grossvater, König-Ludwigs-Kopf)
Up the wall about 3m to the right of the start of the Valley Route under the overhang.… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7/7+
Matterhorn (Grossvater, König-Ludwigs-Kopf)
Via the Valley Route to the edge at the start of the traverse. From there directly… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5+
Matterhorn (Grossvater, König-Ludwigs-Kopf)
Via the Kamarádská Route up to under the roof-like overhang. Here to the right onto the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5+
Matterhorn (Grossvater, König-Ludwigs-Kopf)
Up the small pillar in the center of the valley face to a notch and to the right to a… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7
Matterhorn (Grossvater, König-Ludwigs-Kopf)
On the left in the valley face, up a corner crack and traverse right to the edge.… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6-
Matterhorn (Grossvater, König-Ludwigs-Kopf)
Up the corner to the left of the right valley edge to a small balcony and then via a… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay

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