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Climbing at Lusatian Mountains

3192 routes
5 areas
1–10 grades

The Lusatian Mountains lie in northern Bohemia on the border with Saxony, between Nový Bor, Jablonné v Podještědí and Jiřetín pod Jedlovou, and continue into the German Zittau Mountains. The protected landscape area is made of wooded hills, some of them volcanic bodies exhumed from Cretaceous sediments – such as Jezevčí vrch of sodalite trachyte, protected as a national nature reserve – with sandstone rock towns and viewpoints between them such as Popova skála, Krkavčí skály and the Sloní kameny natural monument.

Climbing is mainly on firm sandstone. The best-known crags are Horní skály (Obrvégry) near Rynoltice, also suitable for beginners, and Falkenstein with Sokolík and the Cvičná věž towers above Dolní Světlá. Many routes at Horní skály were first climbed more than a century ago, some in 1904. Chalk is banned in the Lusatian and Jizera Mountains climbing areas and the sandstone rules apply. For Horní skály, park about 3 km from Rynoltice along road 13 just before the village; for Falkenstein, park free at the upper end of Dolní Světlá and follow the green trail to the border barrier, then 300 m left to the towers. Climbing is possible most of the year; summer weekends get crowded.

Part of Czech Republic, Lusatian Mountains has 3192 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 10. Explore its 5 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Traditional Climbing, Sport Climbing.

Rules

On sandstone the ČHS sandstone rules apply – no chalk, no metal protection and dry rock only. On other rock the ČHS rules for Czech rock areas apply.

Much of the area lies in the Lusatian Mountains PLA. Check the ČHS crag database for any closures before you go.

3
Strážce Modlivého dolu
6
Betonová zeď
Up the left crack (K) to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +2
5+
Strážce Modlivého dolu
Fixed belay
5+
Strážce Modlivého dolu
Fixed belay
3
Strážce Modlivého dolu
From the highest point of the talus, step onto the balcony and shelf, traverse 4m to the…
5+
Strážce Modlivého dolu
Fixed belay
5
Věžička radky
4+
Strážce Modlivého dolu
3
Strážce Modlivého dolu
8+/9-
Strážce Modlivého dolu
In the left part of the west face, up the wall to the 1st bolt and slightly to the right… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Overhang
4+
Věžička radky
5
Věžička radky
4-
Věžička radky
From the covered terrace, 2m to the right of the center of the wall, up the wall.
4-
Věžička radky
From the NE edge, 3m to the right, traverse and up the wall.
4-
Věžička radky
From the terrace, 1.5m left of the center of the wall, up the wall.
4-
Věžička radky
From the SW, by a sheltered groove to a covered terrace. Up the center of the east face,…
5
Věžička radky
4+
Novoborská věž
5+
Novoborská věž
5
Novoborská věž
To the right in the SE wall with a notch to the E balcony St. c.. That way up.
4+
Novoborská věž
From the SW chimney to the zar. terrace. Traverse and along the West edge over the clocks…
5
Novoborská věž
6-
Novoborská věž
Fixed belay
7-/7
Novoborská věž
In the lower wall, a crack to the rock face and the overhanging wall over the circle to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4+
Novoborská věž
4-
Novoborská věž
From the NE chimney on the left through the gully to the E balcony in the NE wall. Up the…
6
Masiv u přeskokové
Fixed belay
5
Houbová věž
4-
Houbová věž
Right in the upper wall to the shelf. then to the left and the West edge up. Danger
5+
Houbová věž
Danger

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