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Climbing at Lusatian Mountains

3192 routes
5 areas
1–10 grades

The Lusatian Mountains lie in northern Bohemia on the border with Saxony, between Nový Bor, Jablonné v Podještědí and Jiřetín pod Jedlovou, and continue into the German Zittau Mountains. The protected landscape area is made of wooded hills, some of them volcanic bodies exhumed from Cretaceous sediments – such as Jezevčí vrch of sodalite trachyte, protected as a national nature reserve – with sandstone rock towns and viewpoints between them such as Popova skála, Krkavčí skály and the Sloní kameny natural monument.

Climbing is mainly on firm sandstone. The best-known crags are Horní skály (Obrvégry) near Rynoltice, also suitable for beginners, and Falkenstein with Sokolík and the Cvičná věž towers above Dolní Světlá. Many routes at Horní skály were first climbed more than a century ago, some in 1904. Chalk is banned in the Lusatian and Jizera Mountains climbing areas and the sandstone rules apply. For Horní skály, park about 3 km from Rynoltice along road 13 just before the village; for Falkenstein, park free at the upper end of Dolní Světlá and follow the green trail to the border barrier, then 300 m left to the towers. Climbing is possible most of the year; summer weekends get crowded.

Part of Czech Republic, Lusatian Mountains has 3192 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 10. Explore its 5 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Traditional Climbing, Sport Climbing.

Rules

On sandstone the ČHS sandstone rules apply – no chalk, no metal protection and dry rock only. On other rock the ČHS rules for Czech rock areas apply.

Much of the area lies in the Lusatian Mountains PLA. Check the ČHS crag database for any closures before you go.

7
Cvičná
From the northeast, up a brittle face and a chimney crack to the summit. Rock Climbing
6
Cvičná
From the large gully between the Masif near Cvičná and the pre-summit, along a wide ledge… Rock Climbing
3
7-/7
Cvičná
Start from the passage to the Main Tower, first up a corner (slings) over the overhang to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
2
Cvičná
From the right (northern) upper edge, up the wall to the right and a crack to the summit. Rock Climbing
2
Cvičná
From the south, from the 'Masiv' near 'Cvičná', jump onto the pre-summit. Traverse left… Rock Climbing
2+
Cvičná
From the upper side, to the right along a rib with artificial holds over a bolt to the… Fixed belay
3
Zimní kámen
2+
4-
Zimní kámen
Through the center of the upper NE wall directly to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
2+
7
Malá soutěska
On the northeast wall, follow an intermittent crack to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6-
Velké Apollo
In the left part of the wall, through a large corner under the overhang to the ring.… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
8
Velké Apollo
From the block to the right of the First Flight route, up the wall slightly to the left… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6-
Velké Apollo
In the left part of the massif, over the overhang and up the brittle wall to the 1st ring… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6
Malá soutěska
On the north side from the block between the small tower and the massive wall onto a… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Velké Apollo
Up the brittle overhanging wall directly to the 1st ring. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7/7+
Velké Apollo
In the left part of the massif, up the wall and through a sloping fissure into the small… Rock Climbing
7
Velké Apollo
On the right edge of the massif, through an overhanging wall over a ring into a large… Rock Climbing
7/7+
Velké Apollo
About 4m to the right of the crack of the Milky Way route, up the wall slightly to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7
Malé Apollo
Up the wall to a small overhang. To the right, following a receding hand crack to the top. Rock Climbing
7-/7
Velké Apollo
In the middle of the wall, to the right of the block, up the wall to the 1st ring.… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6-
Velké Apollo
To the left, following a receding overhanging crack over a ring into a large ledge.… Rock Climbing
6
Velké Apollo
From the block to the right of the Connecting Module route, up the brittle wall onto a… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5
Malé Apollo
Up the wall and through a crack over a small overhang to the top. Rock Climbing
7
Malé Apollo
Through an overhanging crack over a ring to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7
Malé Apollo
In the right part of the wall, to the left of the large corner, through a crack to the… Rock Climbing
7
Malé Apollo
To the left of the Kačerov route, up the wall into the hole and upwards to the ring. To… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6
Malé Apollo
To the left of the Hornická route, up the wall and through a wide crack to the top. Rock Climbing
Přeskok
Holubí věž
From the top of the White Wall, jump to the large balcony in the right part of the upper… Rock Climbing

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