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Climbing at Lusatian Mountains

3192 routes
5 areas
1–10 grades

The Lusatian Mountains lie in northern Bohemia on the border with Saxony, between Nový Bor, Jablonné v Podještědí and Jiřetín pod Jedlovou, and continue into the German Zittau Mountains. The protected landscape area is made of wooded hills, some of them volcanic bodies exhumed from Cretaceous sediments – such as Jezevčí vrch of sodalite trachyte, protected as a national nature reserve – with sandstone rock towns and viewpoints between them such as Popova skála, Krkavčí skály and the Sloní kameny natural monument.

Climbing is mainly on firm sandstone. The best-known crags are Horní skály (Obrvégry) near Rynoltice, also suitable for beginners, and Falkenstein with Sokolík and the Cvičná věž towers above Dolní Světlá. Many routes at Horní skály were first climbed more than a century ago, some in 1904. Chalk is banned in the Lusatian and Jizera Mountains climbing areas and the sandstone rules apply. For Horní skály, park about 3 km from Rynoltice along road 13 just before the village; for Falkenstein, park free at the upper end of Dolní Světlá and follow the green trail to the border barrier, then 300 m left to the towers. Climbing is possible most of the year; summer weekends get crowded.

Part of Czech Republic, Lusatian Mountains has 3192 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 10. Explore its 5 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Traditional Climbing, Sport Climbing.

Rules

On sandstone the ČHS sandstone rules apply – no chalk, no metal protection and dry rock only. On other rock the ČHS rules for Czech rock areas apply.

Much of the area lies in the Lusatian Mountains PLA. Check the ČHS crag database for any closures before you go.

3
Severní věž nad kaplí
4+
Severní věž nad kaplí
5
Houbová věž
4+
Houbová věž
3
Jižní věž nad kaplí
2+
Jižní věž nad kaplí
4+
Jižní věž nad kaplí
2+
Jižní věž nad kaplí
To the left on the North side, wall to the left n. v.
4-
Jižní věž nad kaplí
3
Severní věž nad kaplí
From the plateau side to the right onto the balcony and to the right along the North edge…
2
Malý mnich
From the massif from the East, by leap n. v. Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Malý mnich
Through the narrow chimney between the tower and the North massif n. v.
5+
Malý mnich
Through the center of the plateau wall over the circle n. v. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6-
Masiv u Mnicha
Fixed belay
2
Malý mnich
6-
Pinkasova věž
From the ring of the route directly through an overhanging crack and small chimney n. v. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4+
Pinkasova věž
Chimney and wall between the E wall of the tower and the massif on the SE foreland and a… Rock Climbing Textile belay
5+
Pinkasova věž
Western edge n. v. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6-
Pinkasova věž
Start from the NW valley - crack to its end. Wall to the right to the ring. Then traverse… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5+
Pinkasova věž
Smooth wall directly to the 1st ring. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5
Pinkasova věž
Start from the N chimney and crack n. v. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6-
Pinkasova věž
Start with NW valley crack about 5m upwards (sling). Then traverse left to the 1st ring.… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5+
Pinkasova věž
On the NE side, right up to K. Wall to the crack under the overhang and right with a… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
3
Pinkasova věž
SW chimney in the left part of the uphill wall n. v. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5+
Pinkasova věž
In the right part of the western wall along cracks to the ring, then under the overhang,… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
3
Pinkasova věž
From the SE fore-rock, up a crack. Rock Climbing Textile belay
?
Pinkasova věž
By jumping onto the SE fore-rock and up a small face. Rock Climbing Textile belay
2+
Pinkasova věž
From the east, up the chimney between the tower and the massif to a balcony. Up the face… Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Pinkasova věž
Start from the uphill side, E edge to the SE foreland and a small wall n. v. Rock Climbing Textile belay
2+
Pinkasova věž

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