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Climbing at Lusatian Mountains

3192 routes
5 areas
1–10 grades

The Lusatian Mountains lie in northern Bohemia on the border with Saxony, between Nový Bor, Jablonné v Podještědí and Jiřetín pod Jedlovou, and continue into the German Zittau Mountains. The protected landscape area is made of wooded hills, some of them volcanic bodies exhumed from Cretaceous sediments – such as Jezevčí vrch of sodalite trachyte, protected as a national nature reserve – with sandstone rock towns and viewpoints between them such as Popova skála, Krkavčí skály and the Sloní kameny natural monument.

Climbing is mainly on firm sandstone. The best-known crags are Horní skály (Obrvégry) near Rynoltice, also suitable for beginners, and Falkenstein with Sokolík and the Cvičná věž towers above Dolní Světlá. Many routes at Horní skály were first climbed more than a century ago, some in 1904. Chalk is banned in the Lusatian and Jizera Mountains climbing areas and the sandstone rules apply. For Horní skály, park about 3 km from Rynoltice along road 13 just before the village; for Falkenstein, park free at the upper end of Dolní Světlá and follow the green trail to the border barrier, then 300 m left to the towers. Climbing is possible most of the year; summer weekends get crowded.

Part of Czech Republic, Lusatian Mountains has 3192 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 10. Explore its 5 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Traditional Climbing, Sport Climbing.

Rules

On sandstone the ČHS sandstone rules apply – no chalk, no metal protection and dry rock only. On other rock the ČHS rules for Czech rock areas apply.

Much of the area lies in the Lusatian Mountains PLA. Check the ČHS crag database for any closures before you go.

6-
Matterhorn (Grossvater, König-Ludwigs-Kopf)
Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7
Matterhorn (Grossvater, König-Ludwigs-Kopf)
As for the Southeast Route for about 4m upwards, then traverse left and up a delicate… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
4+
Matterhorn (Grossvater, König-Ludwigs-Kopf)
Via the Old Route to the northwest pre-summit. Traverse left across the northeast face of… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6-
Matterhorn (Grossvater, König-Ludwigs-Kopf)
From the lower start of the Chimney Route in the southeast gully, traverse left below the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6-
Matterhorn (Grossvater, König-Ludwigs-Kopf)
Via the Southeast Route to the southeast pre-summit. Traverse left to the southwest edge… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6-
Matterhorn (Grossvater, König-Ludwigs-Kopf)
On the right (southeast) valley edge, up the wall to the right into the right-trending… Rock Climbing Textile belay
4
Matterhorn (Grossvater, König-Ludwigs-Kopf)
From the northwestern sub-peak, move left onto the northern edge and right to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4+
Matterhorn (Grossvater, König-Ludwigs-Kopf)
Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7
Matterhorn (Grossvater, König-Ludwigs-Kopf)
To the right of Hadí cesta (Snake Route), a crack to the ring. Up the wall to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7
Matterhorn (Grossvater, König-Ludwigs-Kopf)
From the massif on the northeast side, descend to the left and traverse to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4+
Matterhorn (Grossvater, König-Ludwigs-Kopf)
7+/8-
Matterhorn (Grossvater, König-Ludwigs-Kopf)
To the left of the Psychodelikt route, along the edge, over 3 bolts and 1 ring to the… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay
2
Šikmá věž (Křivý zub)
In the right part of the plateau wall, diagonally right to a large balcony. On the right,… Rock Climbing
2
Šikmá věž (Křivý zub)
Far left from the gully between Skokan and Šikmá věž, up the southeastern edge to the… Rock Climbing
6
Zelený lučištník
On the left in the northwest face, follow the crack running to the right to the summit. Rock Climbing
7+/8-
Melzerova věž
From the room out through the window, along the small ledge to the point, and up the wall… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7
Zelený lučištník
On the northeastern edge of the plateau, a smooth wall leads to an overhang. Briefly to… Rock Climbing
Přeskok
Zelený lučištník
From the massif, jump to the northeast edge and to the summit. Rock Climbing
3
Melzerova věž
Briefly up the right edge of the plateau wall, then left along a gully to the summit.
7
Melzerova věž
From the cave, up the wall (K) to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Vertical wall
6
Zelený lučištník
From the massif, drop and climb the northeast edge to the summit. Rock Climbing
9
Zelený lučištník
To the right of Sluneční spára, climb the wall to the right to the 1st bolt. Up the wall… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6
Zelený lučištník
5m to the left of the northeast edge, climb the wall to the yellow hole. Up the wall to… Rock Climbing
7
Stěna Bukového údolí
Through the center of the west wall, a narrow crack and then a cracky groove n. t. VII… Rock Climbing Textile belay Vertical wall
1
Poslední panenka
Jump from the massif n. v. Rock Climbing Textile belay
2
Poslední panenka
Chimney between the tower and the massif n. v. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Kokořínská vyhlídka
Through the center of the east wall into the groove and higher through the crack (bolt)… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Fixed belay +1
8
Borůvčí pilíř
Diagonally up the wall from the right (1st bolt) to the 2nd bolt. Slightly left across… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5
Betonová zeď
Up the right crack (K) to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay Vertical wall +1
5+
Strážce Modlivého dolu
Fixed belay

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