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Climbing at Lusatian Mountains

3192 routes
5 areas
1–10 grades

The Lusatian Mountains lie in northern Bohemia on the border with Saxony, between Nový Bor, Jablonné v Podještědí and Jiřetín pod Jedlovou, and continue into the German Zittau Mountains. The protected landscape area is made of wooded hills, some of them volcanic bodies exhumed from Cretaceous sediments – such as Jezevčí vrch of sodalite trachyte, protected as a national nature reserve – with sandstone rock towns and viewpoints between them such as Popova skála, Krkavčí skály and the Sloní kameny natural monument.

Climbing is mainly on firm sandstone. The best-known crags are Horní skály (Obrvégry) near Rynoltice, also suitable for beginners, and Falkenstein with Sokolík and the Cvičná věž towers above Dolní Světlá. Many routes at Horní skály were first climbed more than a century ago, some in 1904. Chalk is banned in the Lusatian and Jizera Mountains climbing areas and the sandstone rules apply. For Horní skály, park about 3 km from Rynoltice along road 13 just before the village; for Falkenstein, park free at the upper end of Dolní Světlá and follow the green trail to the border barrier, then 300 m left to the towers. Climbing is possible most of the year; summer weekends get crowded.

Part of Czech Republic, Lusatian Mountains has 3192 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 10. Explore its 5 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Traditional Climbing, Sport Climbing.

Rules

On sandstone the ČHS sandstone rules apply – no chalk, no metal protection and dry rock only. On other rock the ČHS rules for Czech rock areas apply.

Much of the area lies in the Lusatian Mountains PLA. Check the ČHS crag database for any closures before you go.

6-
Holubí věž
From the start of the wall directly to the 1st ring. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7
Holubí věž
In the upland face, climb up the southwest edge and rightwards to the bolt. Up the face… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6-
Holubí věž
From the middle of the western face, leftwards to the edge onto a small balcony and… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6-
Holubí věž
From the 1st bolt, two meters left into the corner and directly to the 2nd bolt. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7
Holubí věž
From the bolt, leftwards around the edge and via the crack in the western face to the… Rock Climbing
7
Holubí věž
In the upland face, climb the southwest edge directly to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6-
Holubí věž
On the left in the southern face, climb the crack to the bolt. Climb the overhanging… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6-
Holubí věž
Fixed belay
3
Holubí věž
In the southeast corner to the balcony of the Old Route and via it to the summit. Rock Climbing
5+
Holubí věž
Fixed belay
5
Holubí věž
Via the old route to the balcony. Via the eastern crack starting in the overhanging… Rock Climbing
6-
Holubí věž
Fixed belay
7
Holubí věž
On the left in the valley face, directly to the bolt. Under the overhang to the right… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
3
Holubí věž
From the west via the chimney between the massif and the tower to the summit. Also via… Rock Climbing
6-
Holubí věž
From the bolt directly to the summit. Rock Climbing
6-
Holubí věž
Fixed belay
7
Holubí věž
On the right in the valley face, climb directly up the crack over the overhang and… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6-
Holubí věž
Left of the route Koutová spára, climb the overhanging upland face to the bolt. Up 3m,… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7
Holubí věž
Via the old route to the balcony. Traverse right to the right part of the northeast face.… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
4
Holubí věž
Via the old route to the balcony. One meter right of the corner of the Old Route, climb… Rock Climbing
7
Holubí věž
Via the old route to the balcony. Left of the route "Vzpomínka na Chrousta" (Memories of… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6
Socha svobody
On the right in the southeast corner, follow steps to a large hole. To the left and then… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6-
Socha svobody
Via Koutová Crack to a large hole. In the southern face of the main tower, traverse… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6-
Socha svobody
On the northeastern edge, an overhanging crack higher up the edge to a ring. Standing up… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
8-/8
Socha svobody
Briefly via "Koutová Crack" and traverse right to the 1st bolt. Directly up the face to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6-
Socha svobody
From the 3rd ring traverse right and crack to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7
Socha svobody
In the middle of the smooth eastern face of the fore-rock, climb the face and rib… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
2
Holubí věž
On the right in the valley face, climb the gully and follow the rock steps to the balcony… Rock Climbing
6
Socha svobody
Danger
7
Socha svobody
From the base of the northern edge traverse left into a hole. Crack over the overhang… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay

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