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Climbing at Lusatian Mountains

3192 routes
5 areas
1–10 grades

The Lusatian Mountains lie in northern Bohemia on the border with Saxony, between Nový Bor, Jablonné v Podještědí and Jiřetín pod Jedlovou, and continue into the German Zittau Mountains. The protected landscape area is made of wooded hills, some of them volcanic bodies exhumed from Cretaceous sediments – such as Jezevčí vrch of sodalite trachyte, protected as a national nature reserve – with sandstone rock towns and viewpoints between them such as Popova skála, Krkavčí skály and the Sloní kameny natural monument.

Climbing is mainly on firm sandstone. The best-known crags are Horní skály (Obrvégry) near Rynoltice, also suitable for beginners, and Falkenstein with Sokolík and the Cvičná věž towers above Dolní Světlá. Many routes at Horní skály were first climbed more than a century ago, some in 1904. Chalk is banned in the Lusatian and Jizera Mountains climbing areas and the sandstone rules apply. For Horní skály, park about 3 km from Rynoltice along road 13 just before the village; for Falkenstein, park free at the upper end of Dolní Světlá and follow the green trail to the border barrier, then 300 m left to the towers. Climbing is possible most of the year; summer weekends get crowded.

Part of Czech Republic, Lusatian Mountains has 3192 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 10. Explore its 5 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Traditional Climbing, Sport Climbing.

Rules

On sandstone the ČHS sandstone rules apply – no chalk, no metal protection and dry rock only. On other rock the ČHS rules for Czech rock areas apply.

Much of the area lies in the Lusatian Mountains PLA. Check the ČHS crag database for any closures before you go.

4+
Turecká hlava
On the eastern edge, slightly upwards and traverse 3m to the left. To the left to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5
Turecká hlava
On the valley (south) side, follow the crack over the ring (added later) to the balcony.… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
2
Terasová věž
From the gully on the south side, right of the corner, stepped wall to the shelf. Left by… Rock Climbing
4-
Terasová věž
From the uphill side to the left to a overgrown shelf to the downhill side traverse. Left…
4-
Terasová věž
From the uphill side, to the left to the overgrown shelf, traverse to the downhill side.…
2
Terasová věž
On the left in the south side, right with the running crack to the shelf of the Old Route… Rock Climbing
3
Terasová věž
On the right in the northwest wall crack to the shelf under the overhang. Along the shelf… Rock Climbing
7
Masiv u Cvičné
Right of the center of the wall, interrupted crack to the top. Rock Climbing
7
Masiv u Cvičné
Left of the center of the wall, crack to the top. Rock Climbing
7
Masiv u Cvičné
In the left part of the wall, interrupted crack to the summit. Rock Climbing
6+/7-
Kočka (Strážce)
Center of the downhill wall over 2 rings n. v. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
3
Kočka (Strážce)
Right uphill path to the summit. (Artificial steps used in the route) Rock Climbing
7
Kočka (Strážce)
In the northeast side, wall to the ring. Right to the balcony and wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7
Kočka (Strážce)
Right downhill edge to the summit. Rock Climbing Danger
6
Kočka (Strážce)
From a small block, fall to the left into the south wall and up to the summit. Rock Climbing
1
Samuelova sluj
From the viewpoint, up the rocky steps from the left to the summit. From the viewpoint… Rock Climbing
7
Masív u Vany
On the right (western) edge, up the wall to the ring. Up the receding wall with… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
4
Samuelova věž
From the block in the northeast, descend into the wall. Diagonally left to the balcony on… Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Samuelova věž
On the southeast side, from the base of the wall, left to the balcony. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Samuelova věž
From the start of the Normal Route, straight up the wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
4-
Samuelova věž
Rock Climbing Textile belay
4
Samuelova věž
On the upland (eastern) side to the foreland and along the ledge to the right across the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Olšová věž
Western edge n. v. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Olšová věž
Up the center of the valley wall over the bolt to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4+
Olšová věž
Up the eastern edge (higher up over the overhang) to the ledge of the "SV cesty" (NE… Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Olšová věž
From the balcony, up the S edge to n. v. (natural top/summit). Rock Climbing Textile belay
4+
Olšová věž
From the western edge, up the wall to the right to the S edge, along it to n. v. (natural… Rock Climbing Textile belay
4-
Olšová věž
From the start of St. c. (Old Route), go left to the balcony, to the eastern edge and up… Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Olšová věž
Up the right valley edge to the hole with a piton, traverse to the left to K (Kruh - bolt… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4
Masiv u chaty na stráži - východní část
To the left of the Východní komín (Eastern Chimney), up the fragile wall directly to the… Rock Climbing

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