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Climbing at Lusatian Mountains

3192 routes
5 areas
1–10 grades

The Lusatian Mountains lie in northern Bohemia on the border with Saxony, between Nový Bor, Jablonné v Podještědí and Jiřetín pod Jedlovou, and continue into the German Zittau Mountains. The protected landscape area is made of wooded hills, some of them volcanic bodies exhumed from Cretaceous sediments – such as Jezevčí vrch of sodalite trachyte, protected as a national nature reserve – with sandstone rock towns and viewpoints between them such as Popova skála, Krkavčí skály and the Sloní kameny natural monument.

Climbing is mainly on firm sandstone. The best-known crags are Horní skály (Obrvégry) near Rynoltice, also suitable for beginners, and Falkenstein with Sokolík and the Cvičná věž towers above Dolní Světlá. Many routes at Horní skály were first climbed more than a century ago, some in 1904. Chalk is banned in the Lusatian and Jizera Mountains climbing areas and the sandstone rules apply. For Horní skály, park about 3 km from Rynoltice along road 13 just before the village; for Falkenstein, park free at the upper end of Dolní Světlá and follow the green trail to the border barrier, then 300 m left to the towers. Climbing is possible most of the year; summer weekends get crowded.

Part of Czech Republic, Lusatian Mountains has 3192 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 10. Explore its 5 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Traditional Climbing, Sport Climbing.

Rules

On sandstone the ČHS sandstone rules apply – no chalk, no metal protection and dry rock only. On other rock the ČHS rules for Czech rock areas apply.

Much of the area lies in the Lusatian Mountains PLA. Check the ČHS crag database for any closures before you go.

2
Strážce Luciina dolu
From M descend into the uphill wall and along the edge with artificial steps n. v. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6-
U poustevníka
Through the center of the downhill wall into the wide crack (loop), lifting into the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5+
Kužel Luciina dolu
Along the south edge n. v. Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Perníková stráž
From the uphill rock face, up the NE face with artificial steps. Rock Climbing
3
Kužel Luciina dolu
From the balcony on the downhill side, along the west edge n. v. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Perníková stráž
In the right part of the East wall (from the large pine), up the wall and along the crack… Rock Climbing Textile belay Danger
3
Perníková stráž
On the right, halfway up the uphill side, traverse to the right and up the crack to the… Rock Climbing
2
Kužel Luciina dolu
Along the edge of the uphill wall n. v. Rock Climbing Textile belay
2+
Lednová věž
From the uphill side to the right and along the NE edge n. v. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Lednová věž
In the downhill wall to K, then further left along the rib n. v. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
2+
Lednová věž
From the SE, along the stepped uphill edge to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6-
Lednová věž
Downhill route to K., higher up slightly to the right to the 2nd K and n. v. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +1
5
Čertova skála (Škuner)
In the middle of the downhill wall, a crack to a large ledge (pine), and to the right… Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Panenská skála (Pirát)
From the base, along the sharp NE edge to the ledge, then left and diagonally left… Rock Climbing
5
Čertova skála (Škuner)
Along the left downhill edge and to the right to the ring. To the right, through the wall… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4-
Panenská skála (Pirát)
About 2m to the left of the Old Route, in the middle of the East wall, with significant… Rock Climbing
5
Čertova skála (Škuner)
On the right in the NW side, from the ledge by a shallow crack, higher up to the right to… Rock Climbing Textile belay
8+/9-
Čertova skála (Škuner)
By the W face over 2 BH and from the left n. v. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5+
Čertova skála (Škuner)
Like Hladká spára to the ledge and then by the face to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
8
Čertova skála (Škuner)
On the right side of the south face over a ring to the balcony with connection to the old… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
8+/9-
Čertova skála (Škuner)
SW edge over BH to the balcony and directly over K "Western Route" n. v. Rock Climbing
5
Čertova skála (Škuner)
To the ledge NC, along the ledge behind the W corner to the ring, along the groove at the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4+
Čertova skála (Škuner)
From the NE corner, by a corner crack, higher up by overgrown steps and a short crack to… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6-
Po práci legraci
On the left in the face across 2K n. t. Fixed belay
10-/10
Čertova skála (Škuner)
In the right part of the upper face directly over K to the balcony. Through the passage… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7+/8-
Čertova skála (Škuner)
By the prominent S edge over 2 BH directly n. v. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
8+/9-
Čertova skála (Škuner)
NE edge over 2 BH to the ledge and directly by the face over the 3rd BH n. v. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
4+
Čertova skála (Škuner)
From the ledge, by the chimney 2m up and to the left by the face directly to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5+
Po práci legraci
By the prominent edge over 3 rings. Start slightly to the right towards the ring. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5
Radvánecká věž
About 2m to the right of the SW edge, by the face diagonally to the right to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay

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