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Climbing at Lusatian Mountains

3192 routes
5 areas
1–10 grades

The Lusatian Mountains lie in northern Bohemia on the border with Saxony, between Nový Bor, Jablonné v Podještědí and Jiřetín pod Jedlovou, and continue into the German Zittau Mountains. The protected landscape area is made of wooded hills, some of them volcanic bodies exhumed from Cretaceous sediments – such as Jezevčí vrch of sodalite trachyte, protected as a national nature reserve – with sandstone rock towns and viewpoints between them such as Popova skála, Krkavčí skály and the Sloní kameny natural monument.

Climbing is mainly on firm sandstone. The best-known crags are Horní skály (Obrvégry) near Rynoltice, also suitable for beginners, and Falkenstein with Sokolík and the Cvičná věž towers above Dolní Světlá. Many routes at Horní skály were first climbed more than a century ago, some in 1904. Chalk is banned in the Lusatian and Jizera Mountains climbing areas and the sandstone rules apply. For Horní skály, park about 3 km from Rynoltice along road 13 just before the village; for Falkenstein, park free at the upper end of Dolní Světlá and follow the green trail to the border barrier, then 300 m left to the towers. Climbing is possible most of the year; summer weekends get crowded.

Part of Czech Republic, Lusatian Mountains has 3192 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 10. Explore its 5 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Traditional Climbing, Sport Climbing.

Rules

On sandstone the ČHS sandstone rules apply – no chalk, no metal protection and dry rock only. On other rock the ČHS rules for Czech rock areas apply.

Much of the area lies in the Lusatian Mountains PLA. Check the ČHS crag database for any closures before you go.

6-
Po práci legraci
Through the center of the face across 2K n. t. (rappel station). Fixed belay
4+
Radvánecká věž
To the left of the Poutač route, through a crack to the balcony. From there along the… Rock Climbing Textile belay Danger
6-
Po práci legraci
First route to the left of the route (administrative procedure) over a ring to the small… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7/7+
Po práci legraci
On the right in the face across 2K n. t. Fixed belay
4-
Radvánecká věž
SW edge to the overhang and from the left to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Radvánecká věž
By the face along the right upper edge to a fault (loop) and to the summit. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Danger +1
5
Rynoltická věž
By the overhanging corner in the west face n. v. Possibly climbed before. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Rynoltická věž
In the upper face along the rib (K) and face to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +1
4+
Radvánecká věž
Through the middle of the valley side by the face across dK n. v. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
2+
První panenka
NE face with artificial steps n. v.
7-/7
Rynoltická věž
At the left valley edge, over 2 bolts to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4-
Rynoltická věž
In the south side, up the gully-like chimney to the balcony and up the wall using… Rock Climbing Textile belay
4+
Rynoltická věž
In the E wall, up the crack to a bolt, then to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Rynoltická věž
To the left of the old route, up the crack over the ledges to a bolt and then with a… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +1
3
Rynoltická věž
Right of the SE edge, up the wall (peg) to the balcony. Left in the center of the wall to… Rock Climbing Textile belay
5+
Dírkatá věžička
Along the top edge, upwards to the right to the top. Note: Belayed 'schwebe'. Rock Climbing Textile belay Danger
5+
Havran v Polesí
From the block to the right into the gully, difficult at the edge to the nose (sling).… Rock Climbing Textile belay
2+
5+
Dírkatá věžička
4m right of "St. c." straight up the wall (bolt) through the small crack to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4+
Havran v Polesí
On the right edge of the valley wall through cracks (sling) and a slightly overhanging… Rock Climbing Textile belay
2
Druhá panenka
Left in the NE wall to the balcony and along the edge with artificial steps to the top.
7/7+
Havran v Polesí
Start furthest left in the valley wall, the same as route "Valley Traverse". Up about 7m… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5
Havran v Polesí
5+
Havran v Polesí
Center of the valley wall in line with a massive chimney crack, up the wall to the bolt,… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6-
Havran v Polesí
Same as route "Čachtická paní" up to the pulpit, then traverse diagonally right (BH)… Rock Climbing Textile belay
4-
Havran v Polesí
Historically climbed. In the left part of the valley wall, briefly up (clock) and… Rock Climbing Textile belay
4-
Havran v Polesí
Right in the valley wall from the edge to the ledge, left to the crack, above through the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Havran v Polesí
Same as the route "Hugo on Vacation". From the first bolt of that route, traverse right… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
2+
Voják
From the uphill side to the right along the carved steps n. v. Rock Climbing Textile belay
4+
Havran v Polesí
In the left part of the S downhill wall, via a massive corner and later to the right,… Rock Climbing Textile belay

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