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Climbing at Lusatian Mountains

3192 routes
5 areas
1–10 grades

The Lusatian Mountains lie in northern Bohemia on the border with Saxony, between Nový Bor, Jablonné v Podještědí and Jiřetín pod Jedlovou, and continue into the German Zittau Mountains. The protected landscape area is made of wooded hills, some of them volcanic bodies exhumed from Cretaceous sediments – such as Jezevčí vrch of sodalite trachyte, protected as a national nature reserve – with sandstone rock towns and viewpoints between them such as Popova skála, Krkavčí skály and the Sloní kameny natural monument.

Climbing is mainly on firm sandstone. The best-known crags are Horní skály (Obrvégry) near Rynoltice, also suitable for beginners, and Falkenstein with Sokolík and the Cvičná věž towers above Dolní Světlá. Many routes at Horní skály were first climbed more than a century ago, some in 1904. Chalk is banned in the Lusatian and Jizera Mountains climbing areas and the sandstone rules apply. For Horní skály, park about 3 km from Rynoltice along road 13 just before the village; for Falkenstein, park free at the upper end of Dolní Světlá and follow the green trail to the border barrier, then 300 m left to the towers. Climbing is possible most of the year; summer weekends get crowded.

Part of Czech Republic, Lusatian Mountains has 3192 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 10. Explore its 5 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Traditional Climbing, Sport Climbing.

Rules

On sandstone the ČHS sandstone rules apply – no chalk, no metal protection and dry rock only. On other rock the ČHS rules for Czech rock areas apply.

Much of the area lies in the Lusatian Mountains PLA. Check the ČHS crag database for any closures before you go.

5
Dášina věž
Directly up the Southeast edge (very overhanging at the beginning) to the summit. Rock Climbing
6-
Dášina věž
In the right part of the Southwest face, climb up to a ledge, over an overhang to a… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
2
Dášina věž
In the middle of the East face, climb the crack (hewn steps) to the summit. Rock Climbing
3
Dášina věž
About 3m to the left of Stará cesta (Old Route), climb the crack and then the edge to the… Rock Climbing
6-
Býčí skály
On the right in the North face, from a block, take the diagonal crack to a balcony with a… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
4+
Býčí skály
To the left of Stará cesta (Old Route), climb the sloping, rounded edge to the summit. Rock Climbing
2
Býčí skály
Climb the sloping upper face, using the hewn steps, to the summit. Rock Climbing
5
Býčí skály
From the right in the North face, climb to the wide crack and follow it, higher up like… Rock Climbing
3
Býčí skály
Halfway up Stará cesta (Old Route), traverse right along a ledge to a crack and follow it… Rock Climbing
4+
Plicní přílepek
On the left in the West face, take the crack to a balcony (rappel). Rock Climbing
4+
Býčí kámen
From the start of Studená stěna (Cold Wall), climb the face diagonally right over an… Rock Climbing
4+
Býčí kámen
From the saddle, climb the face over a small overhang (chopped steps) and diagonally left… Rock Climbing
2+
Plicní přílepek
On the left in the North face, take the wide crack to a ledge and then right along a rib… Rock Climbing
4-
Plicní přílepek
To the left of the Wide Crack, take the narrow crack to the summit. Rock Climbing
4+
Býčí kámen
From the upper side, traverse right along a ledge to a K (ring?) and then up a gully to… Fixed belay
4+
Býčí kámen
About 4m to the left of Studená stěna (Cold Wall), diagonally left up a gully to the edge… Rock Climbing
4+
Býčí kámen
In the Northwest face, traverse right along a horizontal crack to a ring. Then right up a… Rock Climbing
4-
Plicní přílepek
To the left of the Crack, using hand jams n. v. Rock Climbing
4-
Plicní přílepek
To the left of Přílepek (left of the chimney), up the 1st crack from the right to the top. Rock Climbing
4-
Plicní přílepek
On the left, in the next section of small walls, up the right crack n. v. Rock Climbing
7-/7
Plicní přílepek
Up the wall along the S edge (or directly up the edge) via the ring to the balcony … Rock Climbing
2+
Šenovská věž
From the massif, a jump n. v. Rock Climbing
6+/7-
Šenovská věž
Up the overhanging left plateau edge to the balcony (sling protection) and straight up… Rock Climbing
3
Šenovská věž
Along the blunt edge n. v. Rock Climbing
5
Šenovská věž
Through the center of the West face directly to the balcony and straight up the short… Rock Climbing
4+
Šenovská věž
Up the wall to the balcony and to the right using the chopped holds n. v. Rock Climbing
7+/8-
Kamenické kouty
Up the prominent edge in the right part of the quarry, directly n. v. Rock Climbing
4-
Šenovská věž
Through the center of the wall below the old rappel station n. v. Rock Climbing
6
Šenovská věž
Up the right plateau edge and shallow corner n. v. Rock Climbing
4-
Šenovská věž
Up the crack to the edge with the balcony, and left into the valley wall over the chopped… Rock Climbing

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