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Climbing at Lusatian Mountains

3192 routes
5 areas
1–10 grades

The Lusatian Mountains lie in northern Bohemia on the border with Saxony, between Nový Bor, Jablonné v Podještědí and Jiřetín pod Jedlovou, and continue into the German Zittau Mountains. The protected landscape area is made of wooded hills, some of them volcanic bodies exhumed from Cretaceous sediments – such as Jezevčí vrch of sodalite trachyte, protected as a national nature reserve – with sandstone rock towns and viewpoints between them such as Popova skála, Krkavčí skály and the Sloní kameny natural monument.

Climbing is mainly on firm sandstone. The best-known crags are Horní skály (Obrvégry) near Rynoltice, also suitable for beginners, and Falkenstein with Sokolík and the Cvičná věž towers above Dolní Světlá. Many routes at Horní skály were first climbed more than a century ago, some in 1904. Chalk is banned in the Lusatian and Jizera Mountains climbing areas and the sandstone rules apply. For Horní skály, park about 3 km from Rynoltice along road 13 just before the village; for Falkenstein, park free at the upper end of Dolní Světlá and follow the green trail to the border barrier, then 300 m left to the towers. Climbing is possible most of the year; summer weekends get crowded.

Part of Czech Republic, Lusatian Mountains has 3192 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 10. Explore its 5 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Traditional Climbing, Sport Climbing.

Rules

On sandstone the ČHS sandstone rules apply – no chalk, no metal protection and dry rock only. On other rock the ČHS rules for Czech rock areas apply.

Much of the area lies in the Lusatian Mountains PLA. Check the ČHS crag database for any closures before you go.

6
Pryská věž
To the left of the NW chimney through a crack into a niche (ring above) and a wall to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
8-/8
Pryská stěna
Through the center of the valley wall and from the left over the ferruginous rocks back… Rock Climbing Danger
2+
Drátěná věž
Through the center of the NW face, higher up diagonally to the left to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
7+/8-
Pryský kámen
In the right part of the downhill face directly to the summit. Rock Climbing
4-
Pryský kámen
Up the face along the left downhill edge to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
7+/8-
Pryská stěna
In the right part of the face, up the face through the circle directly to the ledge and… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
2+
Pryský kámen
To the right in the upland side over the overhang (artificial steps) and up the face to… Rock Climbing
2
Drátěná věž
To the right in the upland face through the recess to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Drátěná věž
Through the center of the downhill SE face along the crack directly to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay Danger
5+
Drátěná věž
From S directly over horizontal notches (large clock) directly to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6-
Drátěná věž
Through the overhanging face to the right of the E edge to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Drátěná věž
Along the rounded W edge to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Drátěná věž
Through the center of the SW face directly to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Pionýrská věž
2 m to the right of the "Old Route" straight up the face to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5+
Pionýrská věž
Through the overhanging downhill face via the hole directly to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5+
Pionýrská věž
To the left of "Nikagda nězabŭdĕm" along the downhill edge over 3 overhangs to the summit. Rock Climbing
2+
Pionýrská věž
With the edge (hewn steps) to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
4+
Pionýrská věž
Through the face over the overhang, through the crack diagonally to the left to the edge … Rock Climbing Textile belay
7-/7
Pionýrská věž
Through the center of the SW face directly to the summit. Rock Climbing Danger
6
Boží hrob / Jeskynní věž
On the right side of the "Altar Route" chimney, over the overhanging NW edge directly to… Rock Climbing Danger
4+
Boží hrob / Jeskynní věž
From the block along the S edge via 2BH to a shared belay station. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Boží hrob / Jeskynní věž
Along the left downhill edge and above the "grave" in the cornice to the right and… Rock Climbing Danger
3
Boží hrob / Jeskynní věž
From NW through the chimney between the tower and the pre-summit to the pre-summit. Via… Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Boží hrob / Jeskynní věž
Through the crack behind the left downhill edge of the pillar via K to the rappel BH with… Rock Climbing
6
Boží hrob / Jeskynní věž
To the left of the "grave" through the center of the pillar, SW face via 3K to the pillar… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5
Šenovská jehla
Through the center of the NW wall, upwards to the right to the ring. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5+
Boží hrob / Jeskynní věž
Up the SE wall along the edge, to the right of the chimney past 2K to the pre-summit and… Rock Climbing
6
Šenovská jehla
From the start of the North edge, up the wall diagonally to the right to the ring of the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5
Šenovská jehla
Up the left upland (east) edge directly to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Šenovská jehla
Up the wall to the right of St. c. n. v. Danger

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