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Climbing at Lusatian Mountains

3192 routes
5 areas
1–10 grades

The Lusatian Mountains lie in northern Bohemia on the border with Saxony, between Nový Bor, Jablonné v Podještědí and Jiřetín pod Jedlovou, and continue into the German Zittau Mountains. The protected landscape area is made of wooded hills, some of them volcanic bodies exhumed from Cretaceous sediments – such as Jezevčí vrch of sodalite trachyte, protected as a national nature reserve – with sandstone rock towns and viewpoints between them such as Popova skála, Krkavčí skály and the Sloní kameny natural monument.

Climbing is mainly on firm sandstone. The best-known crags are Horní skály (Obrvégry) near Rynoltice, also suitable for beginners, and Falkenstein with Sokolík and the Cvičná věž towers above Dolní Světlá. Many routes at Horní skály were first climbed more than a century ago, some in 1904. Chalk is banned in the Lusatian and Jizera Mountains climbing areas and the sandstone rules apply. For Horní skály, park about 3 km from Rynoltice along road 13 just before the village; for Falkenstein, park free at the upper end of Dolní Světlá and follow the green trail to the border barrier, then 300 m left to the towers. Climbing is possible most of the year; summer weekends get crowded.

Part of Czech Republic, Lusatian Mountains has 3192 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 10. Explore its 5 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Traditional Climbing, Sport Climbing.

Rules

On sandstone the ČHS sandstone rules apply – no chalk, no metal protection and dry rock only. On other rock the ČHS rules for Czech rock areas apply.

Much of the area lies in the Lusatian Mountains PLA. Check the ČHS crag database for any closures before you go.

3
Bezcenná
From the stairs, briefly through the chimney, up the wall (carved steps) and along the… Rock Climbing
2
Bezcenná
From the SE through the chimney between the towers, higher to the left up the wall to the… Rock Climbing
6+/7-
Sloupská jehla
From the uphill edge diagonally left to the small corner. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7-/7
Sloupská jehla
From the ring straight south along the edge over the 2nd ring to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Sloupská jehla
To the right in the NE wall, an overhanging crack into a large hole (hourglass) and to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6+/7-
Sloupská jehla
To the right in the SW wall diagonally right to the edge and a hand traverse to the ring.… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
9
Sloupská jehla
Through the middle of the NE wall to a short fissure and to the right to the hourglass… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Danger +1
4+
Krásná stěna
In the left part of the wall, via steps and a crack n. t. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6+/7-
Sloupská jehla
To the right in the valley wall to the ring, to the right with a notch and lieback into… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7/7+
Sloupská jehla
To the right of the uphill edge, up the wall (ring) and a lieback n. v. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4+
Krásná stěna
Between the Left Crack and the Right Route, straight up the wall n. t. Rock Climbing Textile belay
4+
Krásná stěna
In the right part of the wall, a crack n. t. Rock Climbing Textile belay
2+
Kužel
From the massif, descend a overgrown ledge and a step over (or jump over) n. v. Rock Climbing Textile belay
2+
Kužel
From the uphill side, up the wall (hewn steps) n. v. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Spárová stěna
To the left of the Right Crack, a crack running to the right (BH on the right) n. t. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
2+
Půlený kámen
From SW (or NE) to the scree slope and left through the gully n. v. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Spárová stěna
In the middle of the wall, a crack (BH) n. t. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
3
Půlený kámen
Through the middle of the uphill wall to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Strašák v poli
Via the overhanging face in the right part of the valley wall to BH and directly up the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5
Strašák v poli
Up the valley wall, building up to K and diagonally right n. v. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5+
Hrnčířský kámen
Via the E face and right using a lieback technique over K n. v. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4-
Hrnčířský kámen
From the highest point in the E face over the overhang and via steps to the "Old Route"… Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Strašák v poli
From the talus slope, traverse left along the ledge and up the face n. v. Rock Climbing Textile belay
2
Strašák v poli
Through the center of the uphill face and via the recess n. v. Rock Climbing Textile belay
2+
Strašák v poli
Along the uphill edge n. v. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6+/7-
Hrnčířský kámen
Via the "Valley Route" crack and right via the gully 2BH n. v. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7/7+
Hrnčířský kámen
From the W, via overhang and face directly to K, up to the ledge and right. Over the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Hrnčířský kámen
In the left part of the S face over 3K n. v. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5+
Hrnčířský kámen
From the right around the edge over K "Gehacktes weg" and follow that route n. v. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6-
Hrnčířský kámen
Via the overhanging crack in the valley wall and left n. v. Rock Climbing Textile belay

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