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Climbing at Lusatian Mountains

3192 routes
5 areas
1–10 grades

The Lusatian Mountains lie in northern Bohemia on the border with Saxony, between Nový Bor, Jablonné v Podještědí and Jiřetín pod Jedlovou, and continue into the German Zittau Mountains. The protected landscape area is made of wooded hills, some of them volcanic bodies exhumed from Cretaceous sediments – such as Jezevčí vrch of sodalite trachyte, protected as a national nature reserve – with sandstone rock towns and viewpoints between them such as Popova skála, Krkavčí skály and the Sloní kameny natural monument.

Climbing is mainly on firm sandstone. The best-known crags are Horní skály (Obrvégry) near Rynoltice, also suitable for beginners, and Falkenstein with Sokolík and the Cvičná věž towers above Dolní Světlá. Many routes at Horní skály were first climbed more than a century ago, some in 1904. Chalk is banned in the Lusatian and Jizera Mountains climbing areas and the sandstone rules apply. For Horní skály, park about 3 km from Rynoltice along road 13 just before the village; for Falkenstein, park free at the upper end of Dolní Světlá and follow the green trail to the border barrier, then 300 m left to the towers. Climbing is possible most of the year; summer weekends get crowded.

Part of Czech Republic, Lusatian Mountains has 3192 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 10. Explore its 5 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Traditional Climbing, Sport Climbing.

Rules

On sandstone the ČHS sandstone rules apply – no chalk, no metal protection and dry rock only. On other rock the ČHS rules for Czech rock areas apply.

Much of the area lies in the Lusatian Mountains PLA. Check the ČHS crag database for any closures before you go.

7+/8-
Reál
Through the center of the overhanging east-facing valley wall, straight up through the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
8-/8
Duch zapomenutých cest
From the left, up the wall to the edge and along it past the doubled bolt "Neevidované… Rock Climbing
3
Reál
Up the wall along the blunt NW edge n. v. Rock Climbing
6
Reál
Straight up the wall, through the bolt n. v. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
2
Reál
From NW or SE, up the chimney n. v. Rock Climbing
7+/8-
Reál
From the left in the South face and across the huge holes to the hold below the summit,… Rock Climbing Overhang
5
Významná věž
In the recess to the left of "Náhorní hrana" (plateau edge) n. v. Rock Climbing
5
Významná věž
Up the valley corner to the tree and the wall to the left to the rappel station. Rock Climbing
2
Reál
From the massif, a step-over n. v. Rock Climbing
5+
Významná věž
Along the overhanging upland edge n. v. Rock Climbing
5+
Významná věž
Up the valley crack to the tree and straight up (clockwise) n. v. Rock Climbing Textile belay
4+
Významná věž
From the plateau side, traverse right and straight up through the holes n. v. Rock Climbing
4-
Významná věž
Through the upland wall section n. v. Rock Climbing
4-
Sloní skála
Through the left valley crack n. v. Rock Climbing
4-
Sloní skála
Through the right, receding crack on the right n. v. Rock Climbing
2
Sloní skála
Through a system of chimneys n. v. Rock Climbing
5+
Sloní skála
To the left of the route "Drbání za uchem" (Scratching Behind the Ear) along the edge… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5+
Pryská věž
On the left in the valley wall, a wall and edge with 2 rings to a balcony and up the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5
Pryská věž
On the right in the SE wall from the block, a wall and a flat notch to a ring, then to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6-
Pryská věž
On the right in the valley wall over (3 rings) n. v. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
4+
Pryská věž
To the right of "Náhorní spára" (Upland Crack) along the edge to a ring, then n. v. Rock Climbing
5+
Pryská věž
On the left in the valley wall, a wall and edge (2 rings) to a balcony, up a step n. v. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
2
Sloní skála
Along the upland edge n. v. Rock Climbing
4-
Pryská věž
To the right of the SE ascent of the "Northwest Chimney" through a wider overhanging… Rock Climbing
4-
Pryská věž
To the left of "Stará cesta" (Old Route) through a crack to a balcony and a blunt edge to… Rock Climbing
5+
Pryská věž
On the right in the NW wall over ledges and a wall to 2 rings, then to the pre-summit,… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
3
Pryská věž
From NW (or SE) initially through a wide chimney to a large balcony and transition n. v. Rock Climbing
2+
Pryská věž
On the left in the upland wall, a smooth corner (hewn steps) to a large balcony and… Rock Climbing
4-
Pryská věž
Through a valley crack and chimney n. v. Rock Climbing
6-
Pryská věž
On the right valley edge (north edge) to the 3rd ring, then n. v. Rock Climbing Fixed belay

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