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Climbing at Lusatian Mountains

3192 routes
5 areas
1–10 grades

The Lusatian Mountains lie in northern Bohemia on the border with Saxony, between Nový Bor, Jablonné v Podještědí and Jiřetín pod Jedlovou, and continue into the German Zittau Mountains. The protected landscape area is made of wooded hills, some of them volcanic bodies exhumed from Cretaceous sediments – such as Jezevčí vrch of sodalite trachyte, protected as a national nature reserve – with sandstone rock towns and viewpoints between them such as Popova skála, Krkavčí skály and the Sloní kameny natural monument.

Climbing is mainly on firm sandstone. The best-known crags are Horní skály (Obrvégry) near Rynoltice, also suitable for beginners, and Falkenstein with Sokolík and the Cvičná věž towers above Dolní Světlá. Many routes at Horní skály were first climbed more than a century ago, some in 1904. Chalk is banned in the Lusatian and Jizera Mountains climbing areas and the sandstone rules apply. For Horní skály, park about 3 km from Rynoltice along road 13 just before the village; for Falkenstein, park free at the upper end of Dolní Světlá and follow the green trail to the border barrier, then 300 m left to the towers. Climbing is possible most of the year; summer weekends get crowded.

Part of Czech Republic, Lusatian Mountains has 3192 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 10. Explore its 5 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Traditional Climbing, Sport Climbing.

Rules

On sandstone the ČHS sandstone rules apply – no chalk, no metal protection and dry rock only. On other rock the ČHS rules for Czech rock areas apply.

Much of the area lies in the Lusatian Mountains PLA. Check the ČHS crag database for any closures before you go.

7-/7
Hrnčířský kámen
Through the center of the S face over K and diagonally right 2K n. v. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7-/7
Hrnčířský kámen
In the right part of the S face, right to K and straight up (sling) n. v. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
8+/9-
Hrnčířský kámen
Valley SW face directly over BH and from the left using a lieback technique n. v. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5+
Herdstein
Along the edge over 2K n. v. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7+/8-
Hrnčířský kámen
From the W face directly over 2BH and the 2nd ring of the "Grandpa's Bile" route and… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
3
Hrnčířský kámen
From the uphill side over chopped holds n. v. Rock Climbing Textile belay
7+/8-
Hrnčířský kámen
To the right of the "Salvation" route, using a lieback technique to the K and over the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4+
Herdstein
Through the center of the S face n. v. Rock Climbing
5
Herdstein
In the right part of the S face, directly over the balcony and "Old Route" n. v. Rock Climbing
2
Herdstein
From the talus slope over steps n. v. Rock Climbing
3
Český knedlík
On the left in the uphill wall with significant construction n. v. (21. 3. 2004 Pavel… Rock Climbing
4+
Herdstein
From the S face along the edge, over a ring n. v. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
4+
Český knedlík
Straight up the right part of the NE uphill wall n. v. Rock Climbing
4-
Český knedlík
From the uphill edge, traverse left along the ledge to the W downhill edge (clock) and up… Rock Climbing
4+
Český knedlík
Up the right downhill edge to the ledge of the route "Lunch" and along it n. v. Rock Climbing
3
Český knedlík
From the uphill side, traverse right along the shelf and up the NW wall, or the route … Rock Climbing
7/7+
Český knedlík
Up the narrow SE wall and directly up the overhang past the bolt with difficulty n. v. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6
Český knedlík
Up the sharp, left downhill W edge (behind the tree) directly and up the slabby wall to… Rock Climbing
7+/8-
Rudolf Kögler
In the right part of the NE wall, up the wall and edge to the corner, directly up the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7+/8-
Památník písemnictví
In the right part of the S wall, along the outcrop to the ledge, and from the left into… Rock Climbing
5+
Památník písemnictví
Up the right corner n. t. Rock Climbing
8-/8
Památník písemnictví
Up the center of the S wall following chopped holds to the bolt, and above it from the… Rock Climbing
5+
Bärenstein
In the left part of the lower wall over an overhang and overgrown sloping wall n. v. Rock Climbing
7+/8-
Bärenstein
SW rib wall along the edge n. v. Rock Climbing
6+/7-
Bärenstein
Overhanging upper edge directly n. v. Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing
6
Sprostý dlaždič
Start with a crack in the left part of the S wall and left along the edge n. v. Rock Climbing Route on sun Vertical wall
3
Sprostý dlaždič
Upper wall n. v. Rock Climbing
7-/7
Dlažební kostka
Along the right upper edge n. v. Rock Climbing
7+/8-
Dlažební kostka
Through the center of the NW wall directly n. v. (unconfirmed) Rock Climbing Danger
7-/7
Dlažební kostka
Through the center of the upper wall n. v. Rock Climbing

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