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Climbing at Lusatian Mountains

3192 routes
5 areas
1–10 grades

The Lusatian Mountains lie in northern Bohemia on the border with Saxony, between Nový Bor, Jablonné v Podještědí and Jiřetín pod Jedlovou, and continue into the German Zittau Mountains. The protected landscape area is made of wooded hills, some of them volcanic bodies exhumed from Cretaceous sediments – such as Jezevčí vrch of sodalite trachyte, protected as a national nature reserve – with sandstone rock towns and viewpoints between them such as Popova skála, Krkavčí skály and the Sloní kameny natural monument.

Climbing is mainly on firm sandstone. The best-known crags are Horní skály (Obrvégry) near Rynoltice, also suitable for beginners, and Falkenstein with Sokolík and the Cvičná věž towers above Dolní Světlá. Many routes at Horní skály were first climbed more than a century ago, some in 1904. Chalk is banned in the Lusatian and Jizera Mountains climbing areas and the sandstone rules apply. For Horní skály, park about 3 km from Rynoltice along road 13 just before the village; for Falkenstein, park free at the upper end of Dolní Světlá and follow the green trail to the border barrier, then 300 m left to the towers. Climbing is possible most of the year; summer weekends get crowded.

Part of Czech Republic, Lusatian Mountains has 3192 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 10. Explore its 5 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Traditional Climbing, Sport Climbing.

Rules

On sandstone the ČHS sandstone rules apply – no chalk, no metal protection and dry rock only. On other rock the ČHS rules for Czech rock areas apply.

Much of the area lies in the Lusatian Mountains PLA. Check the ČHS crag database for any closures before you go.

7-/7
Socha svobody
To the left of "Sunny Crack" up the wall directly over 4 rings n. v. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
8-/8
Socha svobody
In the downhill wall, traverse along a ledge from the right edge to the left, then… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7/7+
Socha svobody
Start with the Sunny Crack, roughly halfway traverse right to the 1st ring and wall over… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Socha svobody
In the northwestern corner, crack into the gully between the tower and the pre-peak. Via… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6-
Socha svobody
On the right in the downhill side of the fore-rock - white corner to the balcony (1st… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Socha svobody
One meter to the left of the start of the Old Route, up the wall over a ledge to the pre… Rock Climbing Textile belay
7
Socha svobody
About two meters to the left of the Old Route, up the wall directly to the pre-peak. Via… Rock Climbing Textile belay
7
Socha svobody
Western wall of the fore-rock to a ring. Traverse left and starting crack to the pre-peak… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
?
Socha svobody
Rock Climbing
6+/7-
Socha svobody
Fixed belay
?
Socha svobody
From the large balcony on the west side, up the chimney between the massif and the fore… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Švédská stěna
In the left part of the wall, up the crack under the roof overhang. Left and up the crack… Rock Climbing
6-
Švédská stěna
Left of the Moulíkova cesta route, up the wall to the hole and left to the ring. Straight… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6
Švédská stěna
m to the right of Cesta do Bedanga up the smooth wall directly to the 1st ring. Up the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6-
Švédská stěna
Almost in the center of the massif, up the wall and crack to its end on the ledge.… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6
Švédská stěna
Left of the Kam tě ruce donesou route, on the indistinct edge, up the wall and crack to… Rock Climbing
7
Švédská stěna
Up the crack in the left part of the wall over the ring to the ledge and traverse right… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6
Švédská stěna
Up the wall and crack over the ring to the ledge to the 2nd ring. Up the crack over the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7
Švédská stěna
In the right part of the wall, up the overhanging corner crack and chimney corner to the… Rock Climbing
6-
Švédská stěna
In the right part of the massif, up the white overhanging wall over ledges to the ring.… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5
Turecká hlava
From the uphill side to the left onto the eastern edge and along it under the overhang.… Rock Climbing Textile belay
5+
Turecká hlava
Up the northeast face directly over 2 rings to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7
Turecká hlava
From the right side of the uphill wall, to the right to the ring. Follow the crack and… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
5
Turecká hlava
On the right side of the northeast face, up the wall to the right and around the edge… Rock Climbing
7
Turecká hlava
From the southwest edge, traverse right into the hole in the valley wall (ring). Up the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4+
Turecká hlava
Over the niche to the left and up the gully as above. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5
Turecká hlava
From the balcony to the left and up the crack to the summit. Rock Climbing
6-
Turecká hlava
In the middle of the south slope, directly to the ring through the center of the gently… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5
Turecká hlava
From the balcony to the right and up the wall to the summit. Rock Climbing
7
Turecká hlava
Follow the 'Gingerbread Route' to the ring. Up the wall to the left to the 2nd ring.… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay

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