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Climbing at Lusatian Mountains

3192 routes
5 areas
1–10 grades

The Lusatian Mountains lie in northern Bohemia on the border with Saxony, between Nový Bor, Jablonné v Podještědí and Jiřetín pod Jedlovou, and continue into the German Zittau Mountains. The protected landscape area is made of wooded hills, some of them volcanic bodies exhumed from Cretaceous sediments – such as Jezevčí vrch of sodalite trachyte, protected as a national nature reserve – with sandstone rock towns and viewpoints between them such as Popova skála, Krkavčí skály and the Sloní kameny natural monument.

Climbing is mainly on firm sandstone. The best-known crags are Horní skály (Obrvégry) near Rynoltice, also suitable for beginners, and Falkenstein with Sokolík and the Cvičná věž towers above Dolní Světlá. Many routes at Horní skály were first climbed more than a century ago, some in 1904. Chalk is banned in the Lusatian and Jizera Mountains climbing areas and the sandstone rules apply. For Horní skály, park about 3 km from Rynoltice along road 13 just before the village; for Falkenstein, park free at the upper end of Dolní Světlá and follow the green trail to the border barrier, then 300 m left to the towers. Climbing is possible most of the year; summer weekends get crowded.

Part of Czech Republic, Lusatian Mountains has 3192 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 10. Explore its 5 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Traditional Climbing, Sport Climbing.

Rules

On sandstone the ČHS sandstone rules apply – no chalk, no metal protection and dry rock only. On other rock the ČHS rules for Czech rock areas apply.

Much of the area lies in the Lusatian Mountains PLA. Check the ČHS crag database for any closures before you go.

3
Epona
Up the narrow north face to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
7
Malý slon
Up the center of the east face, first into the gully, then over the overhang (hourglass)… Rock Climbing Textile belay
8+/9-
Dančí masiv
In the right part of the downhill face, straight through the ring and slightly to the… Rock Climbing Route on sun
6
Dančí masiv
In the left part of the downhill face into the crack and through it over the ring. Rock Climbing
4
Dančí masiv
Up the wide crack in the center of the downhill face to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
8
Morenocetus
Up the uphill face via the ring to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
2
Helmice
Rock Climbing Textile belay
7+/8-
Morenocetus
Up the downhill face (2 K) and onto the ledge 2 m to the right, then left and up. Fixed belay
2
Morenocetus
In the middle of the north wall over artificial steps to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
2
Helmice
Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Věžice
Up the narrowing chimney to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
1
Věžice
Jump from the edge Rock Climbing Textile belay
4
Markazín
From the uphill side to the horizontal notch and with a swing onto the smooth summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Velenická jehla
From the ledge on N. C. to the right to the smooth edge and follow it to the summit.… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Velenická jehla
Up the right part of the East wall under the overhang, right and up the crack to the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
4
Velenická jehla
From the gorge, right with a gap to the ledge and from the left to the summit. Rock Climbing
8+/9-
Medvědí camp
In the left part of "Bear Camp", up the wall directly over 2 rings to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Dva čerti
On the northeastern side, up the corner to the large balcony. Follow the Overhanging Wall… Rock Climbing
2
Dva čerti
On the right on the uphill side, up a small wall to a ledge. Traverse left behind the… Rock Climbing
2
Dva čerti
From the uphill (northwestern) side, briefly up to the right to the large balcony. Up the… Rock Climbing
3
Dva čerti
On the left on the uphill side, up the wall over the overhang to the large balcony. With… Rock Climbing
7/7+
Českolipská věž
Crossed route into a large hole and a crack over the overhang. Continue along the crack… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6-
Českolipská věž
On the right (northern) uphill edge, over the overhang and from the left over 2 rings. To… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7
Českolipská věž
From the right uphill edge, traverse right into a large hole. Further to the right and up… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6
Českolipská věž
Crossed route into a large hole. Crack over the overhang, about 5m up and traverse left… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7/7+
Českolipská věž
In the middle of the uphill wall to the ring. Up the wall to the left to the 2nd ring. To… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
8+/9-
Českolipská věž
In the left part of the NW wall, over the overhangs directly over the ring to the 1st… Rock Climbing
6+/7-
Českolipská věž
From the 2nd ring to the right, along the edge to the summit. Fixed belay
7
Českolipská věž
From the uphill side, traverse left with an old traverse and crack to the balcony to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7
Českolipská věž
About 2m to the left of the right downhill edge, follow the crack to the left to the pine… Rock Climbing Fixed belay

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