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Climbing at Moravian Karst

1344 routes
8 areas
2+–12 grades

The Moravian Karst is a limestone protected landscape area north of Brno near Blansko, covering about 92 km². The landscape is made of gorges, rock walls and around 1,100 caves and abysses; five cave systems are open to the public, among them the Punkva Caves discovered by Karel Absolon. The best-known feature is the 138 m deep Macocha Abyss, formed when the roof of a cave chamber collapsed, where the Punkva river disappears underground. Marked hiking and cycling trails cross the area.

Climbing is concentrated on the rock walls of the valleys; the best known is Holštejn, with overhanging and vertical walls, often with long run-outs, and hundreds of boulder problems – it is among the hardest climbing spots in the Czech Republic. The limestone can be quite slippery and needs precise footwork and strong fingers; some easier routes are polished and sparsely bolted, so Holštejn is not ideal for complete beginners. The whole area is protected and some crags are restricted – check current rules with the Czech Mountaineering Association and the Moravian Karst PLA administration before visiting.

Part of South Moravia, Moravian Karst has 1344 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 2+ to 12. Explore its 8 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Route on sun, Vertical wall.

Rules

At Holštejn, climbing out onto the top of the cliffs is banned.

Moravian Karst PLA – climbing only on permitted rocks. Some crags may be climbed only in the second half of the year; details in the ČHS crag database.

The ČHS rules for Czech rock areas apply. New routes only with the approval of the ČHS South Moravia regional commission.

5
Hřebenáč
Start behind the edge and still below the first belay, then left onto the edge and follow… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
4
Hřebenáč
Along the right edge of the SW face. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
4+
Hřebenáč
Just to the right of Normalka. Its belay can be used. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
4
Hřebenáč
Through a prominent corner in the middle of the wall. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +4
9+/10-
Hřebenáč
Original classification V A1, RP T. Pilka, 1991 Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
5+
Hřebenáč
Approach same as Pa-pu, but then right to the chain of Normálka. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +4
5+
Hřebenáč
Original classification V A0 Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Friends +4
8-
Hřebenáč
Around the third protection point slightly from the left. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
8-
Hřebenáč
From the third protection point of 'The Last Way' up to the right using the right edge. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
7+
Hřebenáč
Original classification V A1 Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
8+/9-
Hřebenáč
From the third protection point of 'The Last Way' straight up without using the right… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
7+
Hřebenáč
From the third protection point of 'The Last Way' diagonally left. Technically to a ledge… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
7
Hřebenáč
Right approach variant (two separate protection points). Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
7
Hřebenáč
From the first protection point straight up to the second. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
7-
Hřebenáč
From the right of the most prominent overhang. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
7
Hřebenáč
Over the initial overhang into a smooth wall and up to a ledge and the belay. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
5
Hřebenáč
Upwards in the middle of the vertical wall. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
5-
Hřebenáč
Through a prominent corner up to the belay. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Friends +5
5-
Hřebenáč
From the corner of the original, it branches off to the left and goes straight up. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Friends +3
5
Hřebenáč
Upwards right via bolt to belay. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
5+
Hřebenáč
Approach left of 'Stone and Dust' into which it connects from the left halfway up the… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
5+
Hřebenáč
Slippery at the bottom, then technically vertical to a small tree and finish in slabby… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
5+
Hřebenáč
Upwards left along a distinct ledge. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
5+
Hřebenáč
Approach two meters left of the original. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
5
Hřebenáč
Detaches at the top and continues along the North Ridge. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
5
Hřebenáč
Up a smooth wall to a ledge and over a vertical to slightly overhanging wall to the belay. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
5
Hřebenáč
Approach right of the North Ridge and straight to the belay. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
5
Hřebenáč
Approach right at the edge and through a hollow via ledges upwards. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Friends +5
?
Hřebenáč
Approach via the North Ridge and traverse left over one protection point into the ridge… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Friends +4
7
Hřebenáč
Original classification V A1 Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2

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