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Climbing at Moravian Karst

1344 routes
8 areas
2+–12 grades

The Moravian Karst is a limestone protected landscape area north of Brno near Blansko, covering about 92 km². The landscape is made of gorges, rock walls and around 1,100 caves and abysses; five cave systems are open to the public, among them the Punkva Caves discovered by Karel Absolon. The best-known feature is the 138 m deep Macocha Abyss, formed when the roof of a cave chamber collapsed, where the Punkva river disappears underground. Marked hiking and cycling trails cross the area.

Climbing is concentrated on the rock walls of the valleys; the best known is Holštejn, with overhanging and vertical walls, often with long run-outs, and hundreds of boulder problems – it is among the hardest climbing spots in the Czech Republic. The limestone can be quite slippery and needs precise footwork and strong fingers; some easier routes are polished and sparsely bolted, so Holštejn is not ideal for complete beginners. The whole area is protected and some crags are restricted – check current rules with the Czech Mountaineering Association and the Moravian Karst PLA administration before visiting.

Part of South Moravia, Moravian Karst has 1344 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 2+ to 12. Explore its 8 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Route on sun, Vertical wall.

Rules

At Holštejn, climbing out onto the top of the cliffs is banned.

Moravian Karst PLA – climbing only on permitted rocks. Some crags may be climbed only in the second half of the year; details in the ČHS crag database.

The ČHS rules for Czech rock areas apply. New routes only with the approval of the ČHS South Moravia regional commission.

6
Staré skály
Completely on the right in Staré skály (Old Rocks) over a bolt onto the ledge. Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Fixed belay +2
6
Staré skály
Through the corner under the overhang, over it onto the ledge and up the small wall to… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
11-
Staré skály
Via the Vyvolení (The Chosen) route to the extended shared quickdraw, then slightly left… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
10
Staré skály
Boulder at the beginning of the overhang. Endurance finish. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
10-
Staré skály
Completely on the right in Staré skály (Old Rocks) via an overhanging edge over two bolts… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
11-
Staré skály
Through an unclimbeable-looking roof over 5 bolts to the last bolt of Big Brother and… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
10+
Staré skály
Through an overhanging indentation to the 'egg', from there right onto the ledge to the… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
9-
Staré skály
Original classification V+ A1, RP Z. Konečný, 1987 Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
9-/9
Staré skály
From the CPV approach ledge left into the wall and then up. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
9
Staré skály
From the hole under the overhang (no-hand rest and sling) over the overhang and right to… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
9-/9
Staré skály
From the first CPM belay left and up the wall to the anchor. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
9+
Staré skály
With an approach boulder into the Variant of the Underwater Streams route and onwards. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
10-
Staré skály
Slight overhang on bad, spaced holds. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
11-
Staré skály
To the right of Ippolito, over the initial small overhang into jugs and then a brutal… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
10-
Staré skály
Slight overhang on bad, spaced holds. 1975, V A1 RP T. Pilka Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
9+/10-
Staré skály
Harder start of Sofia (from the right). Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
9+
Staré skály
A power-endurance route with the crux below the last bolt. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
8/8+
Staré skály
Crux above the third quickdraw. Small crimps and backhands. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
7+
Staré skály
To the right of Menstruace. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
7
Staré skály
Traverse along the ledge four meters left, then straight up over the overhang into the… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
8
Staré skály
Approach boulder over two bolts onto the ledge. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
6
Staré skály
Traverse along the juggy ledge left to the top of the wall. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Friends +5
9
Staré skály
Boulder along the ledge. Grade 7B Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Route on sun +1
10-
Staré skály
Start like 'Surprise' and then diagonally through the overhang to the lower-off of 'Spasm… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
8
Staré skály
To the right of the route, a surprise over two quickdraws to the rappel anchor. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
8
Staré skály
A surprise to the second and right to the edge. Continues through easier terrain further… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
9-/9
Staré skály
Easy to the third bolt and then boulder over the rounded overhang.
9+
Staré skály
Start left of 'Short Spasm' Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
12
Staré skály
Between BuBuBu and Buzíky. A bouldery 10 (UIAA X) over two bolts, a decent rest and a… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
10-
Staré skály
Start with a boulder from 'Short Spasm', then right and hard to the chain. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2

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