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Climbing at Moravian Karst

1344 routes
8 areas
2+–12 grades

The Moravian Karst is a limestone protected landscape area north of Brno near Blansko, covering about 92 km². The landscape is made of gorges, rock walls and around 1,100 caves and abysses; five cave systems are open to the public, among them the Punkva Caves discovered by Karel Absolon. The best-known feature is the 138 m deep Macocha Abyss, formed when the roof of a cave chamber collapsed, where the Punkva river disappears underground. Marked hiking and cycling trails cross the area.

Climbing is concentrated on the rock walls of the valleys; the best known is Holštejn, with overhanging and vertical walls, often with long run-outs, and hundreds of boulder problems – it is among the hardest climbing spots in the Czech Republic. The limestone can be quite slippery and needs precise footwork and strong fingers; some easier routes are polished and sparsely bolted, so Holštejn is not ideal for complete beginners. The whole area is protected and some crags are restricted – check current rules with the Czech Mountaineering Association and the Moravian Karst PLA administration before visiting.

Part of South Moravia, Moravian Karst has 1344 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 2+ to 12. Explore its 8 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Route on sun, Vertical wall.

Rules

At Holštejn, climbing out onto the top of the cliffs is banned.

Moravian Karst PLA – climbing only on permitted rocks. Some crags may be climbed only in the second half of the year; details in the ČHS crag database.

The ČHS rules for Czech rock areas apply. New routes only with the approval of the ČHS South Moravia regional commission.

9+
Staré skály
Starting boulder, then on small holds in a slight overhang. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
10/10+
Staré skály
Roof climbing culminating in an exit boulder. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +1
10
Staré skály
Variant start of 'Hormone Redneck' over the roof. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
10-
Staré skály
Start like 'A Glimpse into the Future'. From the second bolt, go right on small crimps up. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
9-
Staré skály
Start like 'A Glimpse into the Future', do not climb to the spike, but immediately right… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
8+/9-
Staré skály
Start from a stone into the overhang, from the end of a prominent spike straight up to… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
9-
Staré skály
Across a smooth vertical slab to the right to the anchor. Finger strength required.
8+/9-
Staré skály
From the third bolt of the original route, go left and boulder to the chain.
8
Staré skály
From the third bolt, go right into a small corner and up it.
9-/9
Staré skály
Start from the right. Endurance on crimps. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
?
Staré skály
Deviation from 'If a pig had wings' to the right. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +1
10-/10
Staré skály
RP T. Pilka (Redpoint T. Pilka) Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
9-/9
Staré skály
Start from the left. Endurance on crimps.
7+
Staré skály
Powerful climbing on good holds through a prominent fault in the wall. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
9
Staré skály
Boulder for smaller bad holds. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
8-
Staré skály
Start from the small cave. A long reach above the arch and right of the edge up.
7-
Staré skály
Boulder start from below over a bolt to a shelf and then like Via Kučera up. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
5
Staré skály
Original classification IV A0 Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
5
Stěny nad sloupskou jeskyní
Unprotected slabby wall with a break in the middle. You can climb to the left rappels and… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends +2
5
Staré skály
Step into the wall and from the first bolt traverse right and up. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
4
Staré skály
Step into the slabby corner and up it. Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends +5
4+
Staré skály
Step into the slabby corner and then up the right edge. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
9-
Stěny nad sloupskou jeskyní
Bouldering and finger strength. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
9
Stěny nad sloupskou jeskyní
Up the corner and bouldering over the rounded bulge.
9-
Stěny nad sloupskou jeskyní
Center of the wall, boulder problem above the second bolt onto the slab and up to the…
5
Stěny nad sloupskou jeskyní
Up the prominent corner to the right of the cave entrance. At the top, through the notch… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends +4
8-
Stěny nad sloupskou jeskyní
Unpleasantly past the first two pieces of protection, then easier to the anchor. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
6
Stěny nad sloupskou jeskyní
Original classification IV A1 Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends +5
11-
Stěny nad sloupskou jeskyní
Through the right part of the cave with a boulder problem at the second bolt and an… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +1
9+
Stěny nad sloupskou jeskyní
Through the right arch of the cave. Boulder problem past the first two bolts. Endurance… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2

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