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Climbing at Ptačí stěny

684 routes
84 areas
2–9/9+ grades

Ptačí stěny above the village of Rájec are, with almost 700 routes on 84 towers and massifs, the largest sector of Rájec. They include Dubská věž, Rynek, Pilátova věž, Soví skála na ostrohu, Strážce hranic, Ústecká věž and Pašerák. Vertical walls dominate, often in the sun, with rings and textile protection; grades from 2 to 9/9+. There is also a small bouldering sector at the start of Ptačí stěny.

Part of 2. Rájec, Ptačí stěny has 684 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 2 to 9/9+. Explore its 84 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Vertical wall, Route on sun.

Rules

Ostříží stěny and the Rájec valley are closed in spring for nesting birds. Check the current dates in the ČHS crag database.

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

Parking

50.80620, 14.01701

Dubská věž 29 routes Rynek 21 routes Pilátova věž 21 routes Soví skála na ostrohu 18 routes Strážce hranic 17 routes Ústecká věž 15 routes Pašerák (SRN) 15 routes Masív u Pilátovy věže 14 routes Kóta 23/8 14 routes Strážce svahu 13 routes Listopadová věž 12 routes Rájecká věž 12 routes Moucha 12 routes Ptačí kužel 12 routes Ústecká stěna 12 routes Botanika 11 routes Třeboňská věž 10 routes Včelín 10 routes Hraniční hrot (SRN) 10 routes Dušičková věž 10 routes Rumcajs 10 routes Strážce pískoviště 10 routes Hlásný 10 routes Krkavec 10 routes Vánoční 10 routes Šmudla 9 routes Malíček 9 routes Hladomorna 9 routes Hláska 9 routes Pozdňátko 9 routes Střelecký trůn 9 routes Vozová hradba 9 routes Rájecký roh 9 routes Kulihrášek 8 routes Ropucha 8 routes Svatodušní masiv 8 routes Harpyje 8 routes Lupen 8 routes Ponorka 8 routes Zvonička 8 routes Nešika 8 routes Komínová věž 8 routes Strážce kazatelny 8 routes Hrot 7 routes Mašinka 7 routes Míra 7 routes Kobliha (krapfen) 7 routes Trpaslík 7 routes Rájecký bobek 6 routes Střelnice 6 routes Věž přátel skal 6 routes Hvězdná brána 6 routes Cipísek 6 routes Kovadlinka 6 routes Strážce mraveniště 6 routes Milan 6 routes Strážce hranic (SRN) 6 routes Vidlička 6 routes Slimáková věž 6 routes Masiv za Ústeckou věží 5 routes Rájecká hrouda 5 routes Bumbrlíček 5 routes Červánková věž 5 routes Karel 5 routes Zub 5 routes Kobylka 5 routes Masiv pod Harpyjí 5 routes Kazatelna 5 routes Kopyto 4 routes Tribuna 4 routes Masiv u Mouchy 4 routes Větruše 4 routes Kominíček 4 routes Bábovka 4 routes Malá kovadlina 4 routes Narozeninový hrot 3 routes Holubník 3 routes Špendlík 3 routes Kopí 3 routes Malý strážce svahu 3 routes Masiv zrzavých mravenců 2 routes Ka - ka - ka 1 route Převislý masiv 1 route Zelinář 1 route
6+/7-
Hraniční hrot (SRN)
Right below the cracks in the Old Way up the wall to K. SW edge to the 2nd K and up. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6
Hraniční hrot (SRN)
Over steps on the NW edge to the overhang to K. Climbing into the pinnacle and from there… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6+/7-
Hraniční hrot (SRN)
By crack to its end and up the wall to the right. Rock Climbing
4+
Strážce hranic (SRN)
Through cracks right of the "NE way" to the ledge on the N side. Up the wall and a short… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Hraniční hrot (SRN)
In the N face by hand crack to K. By crack and wall left through the hole up. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
3
Strážce hranic (SRN)
By crack and chimneys in the NE corner straight up. Rock Climbing Textile belay
4+
Pašerák (SRN)
All the way to the right on the S side up the sloping wall to a small pillar. Left (clock… Rock Climbing Textile belay
4+
Pašerák (SRN)
Through cracks in the S face to the ledge. By standing into the cracks on the small… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Pašerák (SRN)
Center of the S face briefly to the ledge. Left (crosses "SE Way Variant") by overhanging… Rock Climbing Textile belay
4+
Strážce hranic (SRN)
NW edge and notch right to the 1st large ledge. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5+
Strážce hranic (SRN)
2 m left of the "N wall" by crack over the overhang to K. By crack left to the edge to… Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Strážce hranic (SRN)
Right on the N side by cracks under the overhang, over it to the ledge. Traverse left and… Rock Climbing Textile belay
5+
Pašerák (SRN)
In the NW face by cracks to the ledge. Right and up the W edge. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5+
Pašerák (SRN)
Left up the valley wall and crack to the ledge. Up the wall. Rock Climbing Textile belay
4+
Pašerák (SRN)
From the block in the NE by standing and gully up. Rock Climbing Textile belay
4+
Pašerák (SRN)
2 blocks in the NE face traverse right and fine crack left of the N edge up. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Pašerák (SRN)
From the upland side right to the E edge into the hole. Under the overhang traverse left… Rock Climbing Textile belay
7-/7
Pašerák (SRN)
1 m left of the "NE way" by blunt edge and wall (2 K) up. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5
Pašerák (SRN)
From the block in the NE face 2.5 m left of the "Náhorní cesta" (Upland Way), by standing… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6-
Pašerák (SRN)
In the center of the valley wall into a hole, and right to K. Up the wall first right and… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5
Pašerák (SRN)
From the block in the NE wall traverse left into the SE wall. Up the wall and left… Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Pašerák (SRN)
Along the S edge under the overhang, left into a gully. Through it and the "Old Route" to… Rock Climbing Textile belay
5+
Pašerák (SRN)
Along the V-edge (intersects "Old Route") around K, higher up via the "Old Route" to the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6-
Pašerák (SRN)
1.5 m right of the "Autumn Route" enter a hole to the right. Directly up the overhanging… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay

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