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Climbing at East Bohemia

14094 routes
12 areas
1–11 grades

East Bohemia is one of the most important sandstone climbing regions in Central Europe. Its centre is the Broumov region on the Polish border: the Adršpach-Teplice Rocks – a national nature reserve protected since 1933, covering 17.12 km² and part of the Broumovsko PLA since 1991 – with more than 1,800 towers up to about 90 m high, the table mountain of Ostaš with a rock labyrinth on its summit plateau, Křížový vrch near Zdoňov, and the Broumov Walls topped by Božanovský Špičák (773 m), quieter and free of charge. Outside Broumovsko there is climbing in the Giant Mountains (the Labský důl icefall), the Orlické Mountains, around Trutnov, in the Škrovád quarries and near Hořice.

Adršpach is famous for cracks, Teplice for face climbing. Strict sandstone rules apply: no chalk or metal protection, only textile slings, knots and "UFOs" between sparse rings, and climbing only on dry rock and in daylight. In Adršpach and Teplice sectors open from 1 May or only from 1 July until the end of the year, with closures for nesting birds; entry is free with a Czech Mountaineering Association card. Křížový vrch and Škrovád are among the places recommended for a first taste of East Bohemian sandstone.

Part of Czech Republic, East Bohemia has 14094 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 12 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Route in shadow, Vertical wall.

Rules

  • The ČHS rules and those of the local regional climbing commissions apply.
  • Creating or chipping holds is banned.
  • Chalk is banned or only tolerated, depending on the area.
  • No climbing on wet rock – after rain or in winter this can mean hours or days.

Many crags lie in protected areas with seasonal closures. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

4-
Hradba
In the right part of the wall, up the prominent crack to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay Spare Route
6+/7-
Hradba
To the left of the steep gully, up the wall to the 1st and 2nd ring. Traverse left on the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7+/8-
Hradba
The start is between the 'Spárka' and 'In utero' routes from the lowest point of the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow
5
Hradba
From the left edge of the wall along the East edge (ring) and up the pillar to the summit… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7/7+
Mezistěna
The start is at the right edge of the NE wall. Up the wall along the edge (1st ring) to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
4-
Borová
From the SE via the corner crack and along the ledge to the right to the ring of the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Laid wall
6
Mezistěna
From the East edge, up the wall (ring) and over a small overhang into the ledge. From… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7-/7
Mezistěna
By way of 'Gumendoš' to the ledge. Traverse left behind the edge and up the wall along it… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Laid wall
7-/7
Mezistěna
To the left of the start of the 'Gumendoš' route, through the corner to the holes, where… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
4+
Borová
To the right of the East edge, up the wall to the ledge and traverse left along it behind… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Danger +1
6+/7-
Borová
By way of 'Jiřinčina' to the ring. From the ring, follow the edge to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Vertical wall
2+
Borová
From the plateau side via the chimney and wall to the summit. Rock Climbing
6+/7-
Borová
Up the wall along the North edge (2 rings) to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
5
Zelená stěna
In the right part of the wall, up the crack over the widening section to the ring. Left… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Spare Route
4+
Zelená stěna
Up the prominent corner (ring) to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
4+
Zelená stěna
Right of the 'Tea Crack' route, up the wall and along a small arête-like feature to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6
Zelená stěna
Left of the 'Corner' route, up the wall (2 rings) to a small plateau. To the right along… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
4-
Zelená stěna
Right of the 'Shortcut to the Snack Bar' route, up the crack (ring) to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Spare Route
5
Zelená stěna
Via the 'Tea Crack' route to the ring. Diagonally left up the wall to the ring. Up the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6-
Mraveniště
Up the center of the wall to the ring, left along the wall into the groove and up it to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6+/7-
Dodovka
From the plateau side to the terrace (via the 'Dolečkova' route) and right into the SW… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Vertical wall
4+
Zelená stěna
In the left part of the wall, up the crack to the summit. Rock Climbing Spare Route
5+
Mraveniště
Right of the 'Grab' route, up the wall (ring) directly to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5
Lišák
From the NE, via the left crack into the gully between the towers, and via the crack … Rock Climbing Fixed belay Spare Route
4+
Lišák
In the right part of the SW face, via a crack, to the summit. Rock Climbing Spare Route
4+
Lišák
In the middle of the NW face, through a system of cracks, to the right below a wide crack… Rock Climbing Spare Route
6
Lišák
From the NE, via the right crack to the ring, and via the crack over the overhang to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Spare Route
2+
Lišák
From the upland (SW) side, via a corner, to the summit. Rock Climbing
6-
Vosí věž
The start is at the S ridge and along it to the height of the 1st ring. Traverse to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5+
Vosí věž
Through the crack in the NE face under the overhang (hourglass), traverse left to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay

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