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Climbing at East Bohemia

14094 routes
12 areas
1–11 grades

East Bohemia is one of the most important sandstone climbing regions in Central Europe. Its centre is the Broumov region on the Polish border: the Adršpach-Teplice Rocks – a national nature reserve protected since 1933, covering 17.12 km² and part of the Broumovsko PLA since 1991 – with more than 1,800 towers up to about 90 m high, the table mountain of Ostaš with a rock labyrinth on its summit plateau, Křížový vrch near Zdoňov, and the Broumov Walls topped by Božanovský Špičák (773 m), quieter and free of charge. Outside Broumovsko there is climbing in the Giant Mountains (the Labský důl icefall), the Orlické Mountains, around Trutnov, in the Škrovád quarries and near Hořice.

Adršpach is famous for cracks, Teplice for face climbing. Strict sandstone rules apply: no chalk or metal protection, only textile slings, knots and "UFOs" between sparse rings, and climbing only on dry rock and in daylight. In Adršpach and Teplice sectors open from 1 May or only from 1 July until the end of the year, with closures for nesting birds; entry is free with a Czech Mountaineering Association card. Křížový vrch and Škrovád are among the places recommended for a first taste of East Bohemian sandstone.

Part of Czech Republic, East Bohemia has 14094 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 12 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Route in shadow, Vertical wall.

Rules

  • The ČHS rules and those of the local regional climbing commissions apply.
  • Creating or chipping holds is banned.
  • Chalk is banned or only tolerated, depending on the area.
  • No climbing on wet rock – after rain or in winter this can mean hours or days.

Many crags lie in protected areas with seasonal closures. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

4-
Kocour
Via stemming between the tower and "Slunečná" to a crack and then up it to the summit. Rock Climbing
2+
Kocour
From the fore-peak between the tower and "Slunečná" by stepping over into the SE wall,… Rock Climbing
5
Kocour
From the end of the gully between the tower and "Slunečná" via stemming to a small ledge… Rock Climbing Textile belay
4+
Slunečná
From the plateau side via a crack to a boulder, then along the wall to the right to a… Rock Climbing
4-
Slunečná
From the SE via a corner, higher up via a chimney to a pillar and then via the 'Old Route… Rock Climbing
4+
Slunečná
From the fore-peak between the tower and "Kocour" via a zigzag crack in the NE wall (bolt… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Spare Route
6
Slunečná
Via the 'NW Edge' to the balcony, then along the wall via a bolt and directly up the wall… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
4-
Slunečná
In the right part of the SE wall via a crack to a small pillar. Then via the 'Křandova'… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
3
Slunečná
In the plateau face via a crack to the pillar and to the left via a crack or directly (by… Rock Climbing
4-
Slunečná
From the small pillar below the SE wall via a shallow corner (bolt) to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5
Slunečná
In the left part of the plateau face via a crack to the balcony and to the left along the… Rock Climbing Danger
5
Slunečná
Along the NW edge to the balcony. Via the 'NW edge' route to the summit. Rock Climbing Danger
7/7+
Vyžle
In the left part of the valley face via a crack (ring) and to the left via the face to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
7-/7
Vyžle
Via the East edge and the face along the edge (2 rings) to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6-
Vyžle
Through the middle of the valley face via a crack (ring) and to the left via the face to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
2+
Vyžle
Via a crack, higher up via a chimney in the S edge and via the face to the summit. Rock Climbing
3
Vyžle
Via the face to the left of the S edge to the small balcony and by stemming to the summit. Rock Climbing
3
Vyžle
Via a double crack and a crack in the plateau face to the summit Rock Climbing Spare Route
4-
Vyžle
Via a slanted crack in the middle of the plateau face to the summit. Rock Climbing
4+
Obelisk
From the boulder below the NE wall, traverse right along the ledge to the edge towards… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay
3
Obelisk
From the SE, via the corner crack and small chimney to the top. Rock Climbing
6-
Obelisk
From the NE, by bridging between the tower and the small pillar to the ring. Up the wall… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow
5
Obelisk
From the valley side, via a small corner to a small platform on the N edge. Up the wall… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay
5
Kiosek
In the middle of the valley wall, through a closed chimney and crack over the overhang to… Rock Climbing
4-
Obelisk
Via the 'Mini-wall' route to the ring. Traverse right along the ledge (across the … Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
2+
Kiosek
From the upper side (S) through the chimney to the block and by stepping over to the top. Rock Climbing
5+
Kiosek
Via the right valley crack (ring) to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Laid wall +1
8+/9-
Tři karty
By the wall along the N edge over 2 rings to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
6
Sokol
Via the 'White Chimney' route to a small platform. In the right part of the plateau wall,… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Danger +1
6
Sokol
At the left valley edge, via a corner crack between "Sokolíček" and the tower to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay

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