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Climbing at East Bohemia

14094 routes
12 areas
1–11 grades

East Bohemia is one of the most important sandstone climbing regions in Central Europe. Its centre is the Broumov region on the Polish border: the Adršpach-Teplice Rocks – a national nature reserve protected since 1933, covering 17.12 km² and part of the Broumovsko PLA since 1991 – with more than 1,800 towers up to about 90 m high, the table mountain of Ostaš with a rock labyrinth on its summit plateau, Křížový vrch near Zdoňov, and the Broumov Walls topped by Božanovský Špičák (773 m), quieter and free of charge. Outside Broumovsko there is climbing in the Giant Mountains (the Labský důl icefall), the Orlické Mountains, around Trutnov, in the Škrovád quarries and near Hořice.

Adršpach is famous for cracks, Teplice for face climbing. Strict sandstone rules apply: no chalk or metal protection, only textile slings, knots and "UFOs" between sparse rings, and climbing only on dry rock and in daylight. In Adršpach and Teplice sectors open from 1 May or only from 1 July until the end of the year, with closures for nesting birds; entry is free with a Czech Mountaineering Association card. Křížový vrch and Škrovád are among the places recommended for a first taste of East Bohemian sandstone.

Part of Czech Republic, East Bohemia has 14094 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 12 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Route in shadow, Vertical wall.

Rules

  • The ČHS rules and those of the local regional climbing commissions apply.
  • Creating or chipping holds is banned.
  • Chalk is banned or only tolerated, depending on the area.
  • No climbing on wet rock – after rain or in winter this can mean hours or days.

Many crags lie in protected areas with seasonal closures. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

8-/8
Sokol
The entry is left of 'Hrobař's Route'. By the left part of the valley wall (3 rings) into… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5+
Sokol
In the valley wall, via the first crack from the left (ring) to the balcony. On the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6
Sokol
In the center of the valley wall, via a crack (1st ring) to the balcony. Right by the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6+/7-
Sokol
In the right part of the valley wall, via a crack and by the wall over the overhang to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6+/7-
Sokol
Left of the center of the valley wall, via a double crack and a crack (1st ring) to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7-/7
Sokol
By the valley wall along the N edge to the 1st ring, (aid climbing) over the overhang, in… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
8+/9-
Sokol
In the N wall, by the right crack to the ledge, at the level of the 1st ring, in it… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Overhang
7-/7
Sokol
In the right part of the valley wall, via a small ledge and by the wall left to the 1st… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6+/7-
Sokol
Via the 'Pechr's Chimney' route to "Three Cards" to the holes and in them traverse left… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
8-/8
Sokol
Via the 'Eyes on Top of Head' route to the narrow ledge. By the wall to the ring. In the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
4+
Sokol
From the lower (NW) end of the gorge, by stemming to a ledge and along it traverse up to… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6-
Sokol
From the gorge between "Three Cards" and the tower, by the wall to a ledge and to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
4+
Sokol
Via the 'White Chimney' route to a small platform. Via the chimney up to the SE tower and… Rock Climbing
4+
Sokol
From the plateau side, via a chimney or double crack to a small platform. Via the chimney… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
3
Zvoneček
Via the South chimney to the pillar and left by the wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
2+
Zvoneček
From the terrace on the SE side via a corner to the pillar and by the wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5+
Zvoneček
In the left part of the NE wall (from the gorge) by stemming and a crack to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay Spare Route
6
Zvoneček
Along the right valley edge, 3 rings to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
4-
Zvoneček
From SW via a chimney between the tower and the block to the block. Left via a crack and… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6-
Zvoneček
From the valley side, from the end of the passage corridor below "Herodes", via a corner… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Hladomorna
From the S, traverse right along the ledge to the E edge, along which (ring) and right up… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
8-/8
Hladomorna
From the NE, via the right part of the valley wall (2 rings) to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow
6
Hladomorna
Small ledges/features along the W edge (ring) to the small balcony and directly up the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
2+
Hladomorna
Along the SE ridge to the summit. Rock Climbing
3
Hladomorna
Via the crack and chimney in the NE wall to the ridge. Via the 'Sestupová' route to the… Rock Climbing Route in shadow
8-/8
Herodes
Via the 'Krvavý den' route to the 2nd ring and straight up the wall to the 1st ring of… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Vertical wall
5+
Herodes
Via the left valley crack to its end, then right up the wall and small cracks to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7+/8-
Herodes
The entry is on the catwalk/ledge below the E edge of the tower. Traverse right and up… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Vertical wall
6+/7-
Hladomorna
From the NE, up the wall to the ledge. Via the 'Kolenačky' route to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow
Přeskok
Herodes
From the rim, by stepping over onto the sub-summit plateau. Up the wall to the summit. Rock Climbing

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