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Climbing at East Bohemia

14094 routes
12 areas
1–11 grades

East Bohemia is one of the most important sandstone climbing regions in Central Europe. Its centre is the Broumov region on the Polish border: the Adršpach-Teplice Rocks – a national nature reserve protected since 1933, covering 17.12 km² and part of the Broumovsko PLA since 1991 – with more than 1,800 towers up to about 90 m high, the table mountain of Ostaš with a rock labyrinth on its summit plateau, Křížový vrch near Zdoňov, and the Broumov Walls topped by Božanovský Špičák (773 m), quieter and free of charge. Outside Broumovsko there is climbing in the Giant Mountains (the Labský důl icefall), the Orlické Mountains, around Trutnov, in the Škrovád quarries and near Hořice.

Adršpach is famous for cracks, Teplice for face climbing. Strict sandstone rules apply: no chalk or metal protection, only textile slings, knots and "UFOs" between sparse rings, and climbing only on dry rock and in daylight. In Adršpach and Teplice sectors open from 1 May or only from 1 July until the end of the year, with closures for nesting birds; entry is free with a Czech Mountaineering Association card. Křížový vrch and Škrovád are among the places recommended for a first taste of East Bohemian sandstone.

Part of Czech Republic, East Bohemia has 14094 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 12 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Route in shadow, Vertical wall.

Rules

  • The ČHS rules and those of the local regional climbing commissions apply.
  • Creating or chipping holds is banned.
  • Chalk is banned or only tolerated, depending on the area.
  • No climbing on wet rock – after rain or in winter this can mean hours or days.

Many crags lie in protected areas with seasonal closures. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

6+/7-
Vosí věž
The start is at the E ridge. Up the small pillars/aretes to the 1st ring and up the face… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
2+
Vosí věž
From the balcony on the NE side of the tower, up the chimney to the summit. Rock Climbing
3
Koule
From the SW, up the face to the summit. Rock Climbing
6+/7-
Sova
From the valley side, up the wall over the overhang and along the East edge (ring) to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
3
Sova
From the upper side, up the small wall to the small plateau. Traverse right to the East… Rock Climbing
3
Sova
Start via the "Traverse" route to the prominent 'hourglass'. Then traverse right into the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
4-
Sova
From the boulder on the upper side, over the overhang and along the North edge to the… Rock Climbing
2+
Sova
Via the "Traverse" route to the small plateau. From the small plateau, up the wall to the… Rock Climbing
5+
Sova
Directly up the NE face to the 'hourglass' of the 'Blindness' route and follow it to the… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay
Přeskok
Kanec
From the edge, jump to the sub-summit plateau. Via the "Descent" route to the summit. Rock Climbing
3
Kanec
Through the chimney between the tower and the edge on the East side to the sub-summit… Rock Climbing
3
Kanec
Rock Climbing
4+
Kanec
Via the 'Chimney' route to the widening, then traverse the wall right to the ring of the … Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5
Kanec
Via the valley cracks (provided ring) to the sub-summit plateau and then via the "Descent… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
3
Kanec
Up the upper wall to the summit. Rock Climbing
2+
Kanec
From the upper side, through the corner to the summit. Rock Climbing
5+
Bivoj
From the N via a chimney directly to a small ledge. Then via the 'With a Wild Boar on… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
4+
Bivoj
To the left of the corner via a wide crack to the summit. Rock Climbing Danger
2+
Bivoj
From the S via steps to the summit. Rock Climbing
4+
Bivoj
From the SE via a chimney and a corner crack to the summit. Rock Climbing Danger
6-
Bivoj
Near the N edge via a crack to the 1st bolt. Traverse left into the chimney and up it to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6-
Terasa
From the NW via a corner and to the left via an overhanging small crack, higher up via a… Rock Climbing
6
Terasa
In the middle of the wall via a wide crack (bolt) and a twin crack to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Spare Route
5
Kocour
From the boulder below the E edge via a crack to the balcony and then along the E edge to… Rock Climbing
5
Terasa
In the left part of the wall via a crack (bolt) to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5+
Terasa
Via the right crack to the summit. Rock Climbing Danger Spare Route
6-
Terasa
From the path below the wedged stone via a small corner, a small exposed groove (bolt)… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6-
Kocour
From the terrace on the NE side of the tower via a crack in the middle of the wall to the… Rock Climbing Route in shadow
5
Kocour
In the right part of the NE wall via a slanting crack or corner (or to the right via the… Rock Climbing Route in shadow
6-
Kocour
Via a crack in the middle of the NE wall into a hollow. Step across to the right and then… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Spare Route

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