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Climbing at East Bohemia

14094 routes
12 areas
1–11 grades

East Bohemia is one of the most important sandstone climbing regions in Central Europe. Its centre is the Broumov region on the Polish border: the Adršpach-Teplice Rocks – a national nature reserve protected since 1933, covering 17.12 km² and part of the Broumovsko PLA since 1991 – with more than 1,800 towers up to about 90 m high, the table mountain of Ostaš with a rock labyrinth on its summit plateau, Křížový vrch near Zdoňov, and the Broumov Walls topped by Božanovský Špičák (773 m), quieter and free of charge. Outside Broumovsko there is climbing in the Giant Mountains (the Labský důl icefall), the Orlické Mountains, around Trutnov, in the Škrovád quarries and near Hořice.

Adršpach is famous for cracks, Teplice for face climbing. Strict sandstone rules apply: no chalk or metal protection, only textile slings, knots and "UFOs" between sparse rings, and climbing only on dry rock and in daylight. In Adršpach and Teplice sectors open from 1 May or only from 1 July until the end of the year, with closures for nesting birds; entry is free with a Czech Mountaineering Association card. Křížový vrch and Škrovád are among the places recommended for a first taste of East Bohemian sandstone.

Part of Czech Republic, East Bohemia has 14094 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 12 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Route in shadow, Vertical wall.

Rules

  • The ČHS rules and those of the local regional climbing commissions apply.
  • Creating or chipping holds is banned.
  • Chalk is banned or only tolerated, depending on the area.
  • No climbing on wet rock – after rain or in winter this can mean hours or days.

Many crags lie in protected areas with seasonal closures. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

6
Tvrdý úlomek
NE wall and crack n.v. Rock Climbing
5
Pauli
From the W through the chimney to the ring and up the wall n.v. Rock Climbing
6+/7-
Bambi
Via the 'Magic Route' to the 'Witch' onto the pillar. With a substantial build-up (1st… Rock Climbing
7-
Bambi
Along the E edge (watch) all the way into the notch and up the wall to the ring. Via a… Rock Climbing
Přeskok
Lopota
From the summit of Robota descend the wall to the small platform on the S edge. Traverse… Rock Climbing
5
Lopota
Through a crack in the SE wall (sling) and a gully to the balcony with the watch. Up the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Lopota
From the N by opposition against 'Robot' all the way to the small platform. Up the wall… Rock Climbing
3
Robota
From the N through the chimney to the ledge, along it to the left and up the wall n.v. Rock Climbing
Přeskok
Robota
From the summit of Lopota via a jump and up the wall n.v. Rock Climbing
Přeskok
Náhoda
From the summit of Robota descend the wall to the small platform on the S edge. Traverse… Rock Climbing
Přeskok
Náhoda
From the summit of Robota via a jump n.v. Rock Climbing
2
Dřevařská
From the E through a small chimney n.v. Rock Climbing
5+
Robota
From the chimney of route no. 1 directly through the gully n.v. Rock Climbing
3
Dřevařská
Rock Climbing
5
Karnevalová věž
From the plateau side up the wall diagonally left to the edge. Traverse left into the… Rock Climbing
7/7+
Kráska
From the SE through a crack to the 1st ring and traverse the wall left to the edge to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
4
Jaga
UIAA Grade 4. From W by chimneys to the plateau. Left or right wall to the valley edge… Rock Climbing
6
Stěna Díkůvzdání
UIAA Grade 6. In the middle of the valley wall by corner crack to the balcony. Up the… Rock Climbing
6+
Tlacháček
UIAA Grade 6+. Up the valley wall (ring) and by crack to the top. Rock Climbing
4
Tlacháček
UIAA Grade 4. In the W corner by crack and chimney to the top. Rock Climbing
8+
Tlacháček
UIAA Grade 8+. Along the left valley edge (3 rings) to the top. Rock Climbing
5+
Amina
UIAA Grade 5+. From SW by slanting crack to the ledge and traverse right along it to the… Rock Climbing
8-/8
Bezejmenný zahradník
In the left part of the SW wall by crack (1st ring) and right along the wall (2 rings) to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7
Amina
UIAA Grade 7. From SE by small pillar/arete and groove to the ledge below the ring of… Rock Climbing
7
Don quijote
Up the valley (SE) wall diagonally right to the 1st ring. Up the wall to the 2nd ring and… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6
Don quijote
Up the rounded valley (south) edge to the top. Rock Climbing
7
Don quijote
Up the right upper (west) edge to the top. Rock Climbing
8-
Bejkohad
UIAA Grade 8-. From SE by small pillar/arete crack and wall to the 1st and 2nd rings.… Rock Climbing
7-
Amina
UIAA Grade 7-. Up the right part of the valley wall (2 rings) to the top. Rock Climbing
6
Don quijote
Up the SW wall (ring) to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay

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