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Climbing at East Bohemia

14094 routes
12 areas
1–11 grades

East Bohemia is one of the most important sandstone climbing regions in Central Europe. Its centre is the Broumov region on the Polish border: the Adršpach-Teplice Rocks – a national nature reserve protected since 1933, covering 17.12 km² and part of the Broumovsko PLA since 1991 – with more than 1,800 towers up to about 90 m high, the table mountain of Ostaš with a rock labyrinth on its summit plateau, Křížový vrch near Zdoňov, and the Broumov Walls topped by Božanovský Špičák (773 m), quieter and free of charge. Outside Broumovsko there is climbing in the Giant Mountains (the Labský důl icefall), the Orlické Mountains, around Trutnov, in the Škrovád quarries and near Hořice.

Adršpach is famous for cracks, Teplice for face climbing. Strict sandstone rules apply: no chalk or metal protection, only textile slings, knots and "UFOs" between sparse rings, and climbing only on dry rock and in daylight. In Adršpach and Teplice sectors open from 1 May or only from 1 July until the end of the year, with closures for nesting birds; entry is free with a Czech Mountaineering Association card. Křížový vrch and Škrovád are among the places recommended for a first taste of East Bohemian sandstone.

Part of Czech Republic, East Bohemia has 14094 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 12 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Route in shadow, Vertical wall.

Rules

  • The ČHS rules and those of the local regional climbing commissions apply.
  • Creating or chipping holds is banned.
  • Chalk is banned or only tolerated, depending on the area.
  • No climbing on wet rock – after rain or in winter this can mean hours or days.

Many crags lie in protected areas with seasonal closures. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

7
Don quijote
Up the upper (NW) wall left to the edge and up the wall along it to the top. Rock Climbing
3
Rosinante
Up the upper (NW) wall left to the ledge and traverse along it to the east edge. Up the… Rock Climbing
5
Don kujón
Up the SE wall to the balcony. Rock Climbing
5
Don kujón
Up the NW wall to the top. Rock Climbing
7
Emigrant
cl. UIAA 7 Along the S edge to the ring. Along the edge to the ledge and over the… Rock Climbing
3
Don kujón
Up the SW edge to the balcony and along the ridge to the top. Rock Climbing
5
Don kujón
Along the NE edge to the summit. Rock Climbing
7
Svatý Vavřinec
From the NE corner four meters and traverse in ledges left to the eastern edge to the 1st… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
8+
Vlaštovčí hnízdo
cl. UIAA 8+ In the right part of the valley wall, through the chimney to the 1st ring.… Rock Climbing
7-/7
Igor
Valley overhanging wall (4 rings) to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
7+
Hrana za bukem
cl. UIAA 7+ From SW by crack to ledge, right by crack and wall (ring) to 2nd ring. Wall… Rock Climbing
7-/7
Zbečnická věžička
cl. UIAA 7 E wall and pillar to the ring. Right wall n. v. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Perníkářka
cl. UIAA 6 From the tourist path, a corner crack in the SE wall to the ring. Climbing… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Zbečnická věžička
cl. UIAA 6- Wall near S edge (ring) n. v. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
8
Perníkářka
cl. UIAA 7- From the random edge diagonally right to the ring. Wall over the overhang … Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Zbečnická věžička
cl. UIAA 5+ S edge to the ring. Wall along the edge to the ledge and along the edge n. v. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5
Perníkářka
cl. UIAA 4 From NW through the middle of the upper wall into the recess. Traverse in the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Perníkářka
From Zbečnická tower by jump to the summit Rock Climbing
2
Šulina
cl. UIAA 2 From NE corner to the pillar and along the N edge n. v. Rock Climbing
6
Perníkářka
cl. UIAA 5 North route into the recess and by Half-Split route n. v. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6-
Perníkářka
cl. UIAA 6+ Near the left upper edge, the wall (ring) n. v. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
3
Buráček
cl. UIAA 3 Left of route no. 1 through a narrow chimney and a step to the right to the… Rock Climbing
5
Buráček
cl. UIAA 5 Through the middle of the W wall to the ledge and left to the ring. Along the… Rock Climbing
4
Buráček
cl. UIAA 4 Right of route no. 1 traverse into the chimney. Through the chimney to a… Rock Climbing
6-
Vojenská věž
cl. UIAA 6- Right of route no. 1 by crack to a small platform, in the ledge right and by… Rock Climbing
6+
Vojenská věž
cl. UIAA 6+ From W by crack to ledge and right to 1st ring. By crack to 2nd ring. By wall… Rock Climbing
5
Vojenská věž
cl. UIAA 5 From W by chimney into the gorge. By chimney to 1st ring and by wall to 2nd… Rock Climbing
6-
Vojenská věž
cl. UIAA 6- By route no. 5 to a small platform and by crack to the ring. Left by gully… Rock Climbing
7
Vojenská věž
cl. UIAA 7 From the upper gorge by wall (2 rings) n. v. Rock Climbing
7-/7
Vojenská věž
In the left part of the valley SE wall by crack (ring), by pillar and wall directly to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1

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