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Climbing at East Bohemia

14094 routes
12 areas
1–11 grades

East Bohemia is one of the most important sandstone climbing regions in Central Europe. Its centre is the Broumov region on the Polish border: the Adršpach-Teplice Rocks – a national nature reserve protected since 1933, covering 17.12 km² and part of the Broumovsko PLA since 1991 – with more than 1,800 towers up to about 90 m high, the table mountain of Ostaš with a rock labyrinth on its summit plateau, Křížový vrch near Zdoňov, and the Broumov Walls topped by Božanovský Špičák (773 m), quieter and free of charge. Outside Broumovsko there is climbing in the Giant Mountains (the Labský důl icefall), the Orlické Mountains, around Trutnov, in the Škrovád quarries and near Hořice.

Adršpach is famous for cracks, Teplice for face climbing. Strict sandstone rules apply: no chalk or metal protection, only textile slings, knots and "UFOs" between sparse rings, and climbing only on dry rock and in daylight. In Adršpach and Teplice sectors open from 1 May or only from 1 July until the end of the year, with closures for nesting birds; entry is free with a Czech Mountaineering Association card. Křížový vrch and Škrovád are among the places recommended for a first taste of East Bohemian sandstone.

Part of Czech Republic, East Bohemia has 14094 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 12 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Route in shadow, Vertical wall.

Rules

  • The ČHS rules and those of the local regional climbing commissions apply.
  • Creating or chipping holds is banned.
  • Chalk is banned or only tolerated, depending on the area.
  • No climbing on wet rock – after rain or in winter this can mean hours or days.

Many crags lie in protected areas with seasonal closures. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

4
Vojenská věž
cl. UIAA 4 From the upper massif (Buráček) a slight descent, by overflow and wall n. v. Rock Climbing
3
Zakuklenec
cl. UIAA 3 Conical chimney n. v. Rock Climbing
6
Housenka
cl. UIAA 6 In the right part of the upper gorge by stemming to the ring. By crack along… Rock Climbing
7
Housenka
cl. UIAA 7 Valley crack (ring) to 2nd ring. Right by wall to balcony, left by wall, along… Rock Climbing
4
Zakuklenec
cl. UIAA 4 From E diagonally SE wall down and into the crack. By crack in the S wall n. v. Rock Climbing
5+
Housenka
cl. UIAA 5+ In the middle of the upper gorge by stemming and wall (ring) to the balcony.… Rock Climbing
3
Zakuklenec
cl. UIAA 3 Description missing Rock Climbing
5+
Klička
cl. UIAA 5+ In the right part of the valley wall by crack to a small platform and by wall… Rock Climbing
6+
Zakuklenec
cl. UIAA 6+ Along the S edge (ring) n. v. Rock Climbing
7-
Klička
cl. UIAA 7- At the left edge of the SW wall about 4m up and right into the niche. Through… Rock Climbing
7-/7
Salamandra
SW wall (2 rings) to the 1st ring of the route "Wild Legs" and by that to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
9/9+
Alkatraz
Through the middle of the Southwest wall (2 bolts) to the ring. Wall slightly left (2… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
8
Alkatraz
The access is from the chimney behind Salamandra. By cut in the southeast wall left to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7-/7
Alkatraz
From the gently sloping fore-rock in the left part of the valley wall, through the corner… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
9
Alkatraz
By route "Escape through the Pipeline" up to the beginning of the gully. Wall left to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6-
Quodlibet
cl. UIAA 6- From SE by crack below the overhang, by wall right and by crack to the ring.… Rock Climbing
5+
Quodlibet
UIAA class 5+. From the plateau side via chimney and crack to the saddle. Via the wall… Rock Climbing
5+
Quodlibet
UIAA class 5+. From the W edge via the wall right to the ring. Through the gully into the… Rock Climbing
8
Salamandra
From the southwest through a crack over the overhang and along the western edge (1st ring… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7+
Quodlibet
UIAA class 7+. Via the valley wall (ring) into the gully of route no. 4, then through it… Rock Climbing
4
Šidítko
UIAA class 4. From the W via chimney over wedged boulders, a diagonal crack and the SW… Rock Climbing
5
Šidítko
UIAA class 5. Via the plateau wall to the summit. Rock Climbing
6
Na mýtě
From the right via the wall to the valley (south) edge and via the wall along it (2 rings… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
2
Na mýtě
From the plateau side via the overhang and wall to the summit. Rock Climbing
5+
Šidítko
UIAA class 5+. Right of the valley chimney via the wall to a small platform. Via the wall… Rock Climbing
3
Šidítko
UIAA class 3. From the plateau gorge, over blocks downwards, via crack and NE wall to the… Rock Climbing
5
Šidítko
UIAA class 5. Description missing. Rock Climbing
6+
Bondy
UIAA class 6+. Via crack in the valley wall to the ring, via left/natural gully to the… Rock Climbing
8
Doktůrek
Up the middle of the valley wall via crack, right via the wall (2 rings) and crack to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
2
Doktůrek
Via the chimney between the tower and "Vladimírek" to the plateau saddle and via the… Rock Climbing

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