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Climbing at East Bohemia

14094 routes
12 areas
1–11 grades

East Bohemia is one of the most important sandstone climbing regions in Central Europe. Its centre is the Broumov region on the Polish border: the Adršpach-Teplice Rocks – a national nature reserve protected since 1933, covering 17.12 km² and part of the Broumovsko PLA since 1991 – with more than 1,800 towers up to about 90 m high, the table mountain of Ostaš with a rock labyrinth on its summit plateau, Křížový vrch near Zdoňov, and the Broumov Walls topped by Božanovský Špičák (773 m), quieter and free of charge. Outside Broumovsko there is climbing in the Giant Mountains (the Labský důl icefall), the Orlické Mountains, around Trutnov, in the Škrovád quarries and near Hořice.

Adršpach is famous for cracks, Teplice for face climbing. Strict sandstone rules apply: no chalk or metal protection, only textile slings, knots and "UFOs" between sparse rings, and climbing only on dry rock and in daylight. In Adršpach and Teplice sectors open from 1 May or only from 1 July until the end of the year, with closures for nesting birds; entry is free with a Czech Mountaineering Association card. Křížový vrch and Škrovád are among the places recommended for a first taste of East Bohemian sandstone.

Part of Czech Republic, East Bohemia has 14094 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 12 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Route in shadow, Vertical wall.

Rules

  • The ČHS rules and those of the local regional climbing commissions apply.
  • Creating or chipping holds is banned.
  • Chalk is banned or only tolerated, depending on the area.
  • No climbing on wet rock – after rain or in winter this can mean hours or days.

Many crags lie in protected areas with seasonal closures. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

5
Čvachtalenka
From the tourist path by wide crack to the summit. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
5
Stanislav Devátý
From the North to the fore-rock, by step-over to the ledge, right onto the edge and along… Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Zilvar z chudobince
Along the South edge, higher up right by wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Čvachtalenka
Along the SE edge to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Stanislav Devátý
Along the SE edge to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5+
Čvachtalenka
From the tourist route over a small overhang into a finger crack (ring) and by it to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
2
Vrahovo hledí
To the left of route 'Tiché botky' (Silent Shoes) by gully to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Stanislav Devátý
From NE by chimney to the ledge, in it traverse left and along the edge to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Vrahovo hledí
Up the plateau wall to the right onto a small balcony and by wall directly or from the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Vrahovo hledí
By NE crack to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
2
Vrahovo hledí
To the left of the Old Route by plateau crack to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
Přeskok
Bojler pana Smaika
From SW from the edge by jump/step-over to the balcony and by the right gully to the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
Přeskok
Bojler pana Smaika
From the balcony by crack in the left gully to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
4
Bojler pana Smaika
From the start of 'Rozvoraná cesta' (Split/Broken Route) up the wall diagonally left and… Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Bojler pana Smaika
From the plateau side up the wall diagonally right to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5+
Bojler pana Smaika
From NE by wide crack to the pillar. Up the wall left behind the edge to the ring and by… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5
Bojler pana Smaika
From the start of 'Rozvoraná cesta' (Split/Broken Route) up the wall directly to the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Melichar
Via the 'Adoration of the Kings' route to the ledge. Traverse right and along the recess… Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Baltazar
From the inter-towers (from Melichar) wall left to the east edge. Wall along the edge to… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Melichar
At the east edge on the right, wall into the crack, through it to the balcony and via the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
2
Kašpar
In the middle of the NE wall via a thoroughly overgrown crack (more like a flowerbed) and… Rock Climbing Textile belay
4
Melichar
From the north by bridging/stemming to the ledge. Traverse left behind the edge to the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
4
Melichar
NE wall to the ledge. Rock Climbing Textile belay
4
Česílko
SW edge to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Tmáček
NE chimney to the sub-summit and wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Česílko
By the upland wall. Rock Climbing Textile belay
2
Kokos
Valley chimney to the fore-rock, by step-over and wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Kokos
In the right part of the valley wall by corner crack and left by wide crack to the fore… Rock Climbing Textile belay
8-/8
Kokos
From NW by crack to the 1st ring. Right into the gully and by wall (2nd ring) to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7-/7
Kokos
Right of the E edge (below the rappel) over 2 rings to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay

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