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Climbing at East Bohemia

14094 routes
12 areas
1–11 grades

East Bohemia is one of the most important sandstone climbing regions in Central Europe. Its centre is the Broumov region on the Polish border: the Adršpach-Teplice Rocks – a national nature reserve protected since 1933, covering 17.12 km² and part of the Broumovsko PLA since 1991 – with more than 1,800 towers up to about 90 m high, the table mountain of Ostaš with a rock labyrinth on its summit plateau, Křížový vrch near Zdoňov, and the Broumov Walls topped by Božanovský Špičák (773 m), quieter and free of charge. Outside Broumovsko there is climbing in the Giant Mountains (the Labský důl icefall), the Orlické Mountains, around Trutnov, in the Škrovád quarries and near Hořice.

Adršpach is famous for cracks, Teplice for face climbing. Strict sandstone rules apply: no chalk or metal protection, only textile slings, knots and "UFOs" between sparse rings, and climbing only on dry rock and in daylight. In Adršpach and Teplice sectors open from 1 May or only from 1 July until the end of the year, with closures for nesting birds; entry is free with a Czech Mountaineering Association card. Křížový vrch and Škrovád are among the places recommended for a first taste of East Bohemian sandstone.

Part of Czech Republic, East Bohemia has 14094 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 12 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Route in shadow, Vertical wall.

Rules

  • The ČHS rules and those of the local regional climbing commissions apply.
  • Creating or chipping holds is banned.
  • Chalk is banned or only tolerated, depending on the area.
  • No climbing on wet rock – after rain or in winter this can mean hours or days.

Many crags lie in protected areas with seasonal closures. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

5+
Sud
From the ring, a long traverse across the wall to the right, over the entire valley wall… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5+
Sud
From the NW, by crack to the ring, aid climbing from sit harness and by gully to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4
Standokan
Up the plateau (SW) chimney to the pillar and up the wall left to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Kozák dubový
Between Kozák dubový and Ptákojeb lesní, by chimney and left by crack to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Kozák dubový
Up the plateau wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5+
Kozák dubový
Along the western edge, up the wall (2 rings) to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6-
Kozák dubový
In the middle of the SW wall, by crack to the ring and up the wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5
Ptákojeb lesní
At the S end of the passage between the tower and Kozák dubový, stemming/bridging, higher… Rock Climbing Textile belay
4
Ptákojeb lesní
In the valley wall behind the large pine tree, up to the short gully, by it to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Ptákojeb lesní
Through the chimney between Ptákojeb lesní and Kozák dubový into the widening and up the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
Přeskok
Kozák dubový
From Ptákojeb lesní. Rock Climbing
6-
Ptákojeb lesní
Between Ptákojeb lesní and Kozák dubový, by chimney to the 1st ring. Left along the small… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5
Tovaryš
From the footbridge, left to the valley side and up the wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Tovaryš
In the middle of the valley wall, over the overhang to the ledge. Left up the wall into… Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Tovaryš
Through the left part of the plateau wall over the footbridge to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay Laid wall
5
Sitting Bull
Right in the valley wall, by chimney and stemming/bridging to the ring. By edge to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4
Sitting Bull
From the plateau side, aid climbing and up the wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
4-
Sitting Bull
Left in the valley wall, by chimney to the pillar. Stepping over and up the wall (ring)… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7+/8-
Old Shatterhand
Three meters along the crack of the Indian Path and right up the wall to the 1st ring.… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5+
Old Shatterhand
The ascent starts under the right part of the valley wall. Along the crack diagonally… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5
Old Shatterhand
From the massif, descend by chimney to the ledge, overhang/drop and aid climbing into the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
3
Stoprocentní věž
From Sitting Bull, descend to an overgrown ledge (pine tree), overhang/drop, aid climbing… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Stoprocentní věž
In the plateau wall, by small pillar/niche to the ring and up the wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7+/8-
Sam Hawkins
From the west, up the overhanging crack and chimney to the 1st ring. Up the wall along… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
5+
Sam Hawkins
Along the path 'On the War Trail' to the 1st ring and along the crack to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
8-/8
Vinnetou
In the west wall (right of the Germany route) up the small chimney/groove, cracks in the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
3
Nudistka
SE wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Nudistka
From the small pillar on the NW side of the tower via an overhang/mantle and up the wall… Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Nudistka
NE wall (ring) to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5
Babiččina lenoška
Left of the Pětková (Five) route's start, via the wide crack to the block. Rock Climbing Textile belay

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