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Climbing at East Bohemia

14094 routes
12 areas
1–11 grades

East Bohemia is one of the most important sandstone climbing regions in Central Europe. Its centre is the Broumov region on the Polish border: the Adršpach-Teplice Rocks – a national nature reserve protected since 1933, covering 17.12 km² and part of the Broumovsko PLA since 1991 – with more than 1,800 towers up to about 90 m high, the table mountain of Ostaš with a rock labyrinth on its summit plateau, Křížový vrch near Zdoňov, and the Broumov Walls topped by Božanovský Špičák (773 m), quieter and free of charge. Outside Broumovsko there is climbing in the Giant Mountains (the Labský důl icefall), the Orlické Mountains, around Trutnov, in the Škrovád quarries and near Hořice.

Adršpach is famous for cracks, Teplice for face climbing. Strict sandstone rules apply: no chalk or metal protection, only textile slings, knots and "UFOs" between sparse rings, and climbing only on dry rock and in daylight. In Adršpach and Teplice sectors open from 1 May or only from 1 July until the end of the year, with closures for nesting birds; entry is free with a Czech Mountaineering Association card. Křížový vrch and Škrovád are among the places recommended for a first taste of East Bohemian sandstone.

Part of Czech Republic, East Bohemia has 14094 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 12 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Route in shadow, Vertical wall.

Rules

  • The ČHS rules and those of the local regional climbing commissions apply.
  • Creating or chipping holds is banned.
  • Chalk is banned or only tolerated, depending on the area.
  • No climbing on wet rock – after rain or in winter this can mean hours or days.

Many crags lie in protected areas with seasonal closures. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

7/7+
Kokos
Left of the E corner by wall to the 1st ring, higher along the edge over the 2nd ring to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
3
Žejdlík
SE chimney and crack to the sub-summit. Wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
4
Žejdlík
Valley crack (from Půllitr), higher by the 'Descent' route to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
7-/7
Žejdlík
Left of the north corner by wall, higher by crack (1st ring) and right by narrow gully… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
2
Lisá eminence
By upland chimney and wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Půllitr
From SW by chimney to the ring. Left by wall and higher along the edge by wall to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5
Půllitr
Valley crack to the window, by chimney and crack to the ledge, by standing to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Lisá eminence
From SW by wide crack to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
4+
Prdítko
In the south wall, left via receding narrow gullies/arêtes to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6+/7-
Lisá eminence
From the tourist path (from NW) by crack to the 1st ring, left by step into the crack and… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5+
Prdítko
Left of 'Scented' by wall (ring) to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6+/7-
Prdítko
From the left over the flake to the NW edge and along it (2 rings) to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
3
Prdítko
On the upland side by bridging/stemming to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5+
Výčep
West wall along the slanted small cracks over 3 rings to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +3
6
Prdítko
Wall along the west edge (ring) to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6-
Imbecilní věž
Narrow gully/arête crack (ring) left of the small valley. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
8-/8
Imbecilní věž
Right valley edge (4 rings). Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
7+/8-
Imbecilní věž
Left valley edge and wall 4 (5?) rings. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
2
Imbecilní věž
From the upland side by short wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
4
Oměj
On the upland side by bridging/stemming to the gully, through it to the ledge with a pine… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6-
Oměj
SW wall (2 rings) to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
3
Muchnička
Through the chimney on the plateau side of the tower. Rock Climbing Textile belay
Přeskok
Oměj
From the massif by step-over to the summit. Rock Climbing
6
Muchnička
Up the plateau wall to the pillar, stepping over the "Botaska Route" chimney, and to the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
7+/8-
Patriarcha
At the left valley edge, by crack to the end, right up the wall to the small pillar/niche… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
8/8+
Patriarcha
From the S, by crack to the 1st ring. Up the wall along the edge (4 rings) to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7-/7
Sud
Up the SW wall, traverse left on the ledge and by crack to the 1st ring. Up the wall (2nd… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6+/7-
Šenkýřka
In the valley wall, by chimney and crack to the 1st ring. By small pillar/niche, higher… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7-/7
Šenkýřka
In the middle of the NE wall, by crack to the ring. Traverse across the wall to the right… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5+
Sud
From the SE, stemming/bridging between Sud and Šenkýřka, higher up the wall to the ring … Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay

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