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Climbing at East Bohemia

14094 routes
12 areas
1–11 grades

East Bohemia is one of the most important sandstone climbing regions in Central Europe. Its centre is the Broumov region on the Polish border: the Adršpach-Teplice Rocks – a national nature reserve protected since 1933, covering 17.12 km² and part of the Broumovsko PLA since 1991 – with more than 1,800 towers up to about 90 m high, the table mountain of Ostaš with a rock labyrinth on its summit plateau, Křížový vrch near Zdoňov, and the Broumov Walls topped by Božanovský Špičák (773 m), quieter and free of charge. Outside Broumovsko there is climbing in the Giant Mountains (the Labský důl icefall), the Orlické Mountains, around Trutnov, in the Škrovád quarries and near Hořice.

Adršpach is famous for cracks, Teplice for face climbing. Strict sandstone rules apply: no chalk or metal protection, only textile slings, knots and "UFOs" between sparse rings, and climbing only on dry rock and in daylight. In Adršpach and Teplice sectors open from 1 May or only from 1 July until the end of the year, with closures for nesting birds; entry is free with a Czech Mountaineering Association card. Křížový vrch and Škrovád are among the places recommended for a first taste of East Bohemian sandstone.

Part of Czech Republic, East Bohemia has 14094 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 12 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Route in shadow, Vertical wall.

Rules

  • The ČHS rules and those of the local regional climbing commissions apply.
  • Creating or chipping holds is banned.
  • Chalk is banned or only tolerated, depending on the area.
  • No climbing on wet rock – after rain or in winter this can mean hours or days.

Many crags lie in protected areas with seasonal closures. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

7/7+
Ála
Up the center of the valley (SW) wall to the 1st ring. Via the wall slightly left over a… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7/7+
Ála
Via route "Poslední šnýtek" to the 1st ring. Via the wall diagonally right over holes to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7-/7
Doktůrek
From the SW via an intricate crack to its end (ring) and along the edge to the SW pillar … Rock Climbing Fixed belay
8
Doktůrek
From the valley via the wall to a balcony to the 1st ring, further via a hand-traverse… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
3
Araukarit
UIAA class 3. From the E via chimney to the saddle and right via the wall to the summit. Rock Climbing
2
Arkýř
From the plateau saddle left of the eastern edge via crack to the summit. Rock Climbing
2
Arkýř
Via the Northwest crack to the summit. Rock Climbing
5
Šimpanz
From the Southwest via cracks to the top/crest. Rock Climbing
6-
Střmen
UIAA class 6-. From the valley side via a system of chimneys to the ring, via crack to… Rock Climbing
5
Střmen
UIAA class 5. Left/Naturally from route no. 3 via a system of cracks and chimneys to the… Rock Climbing
6-
Přilba
UIAA class 6-. From the NW over boulders and descent via slab to the detached block/flake… Rock Climbing
7+
Střmen
UIAA class 7+. Approach from the staircase of the tourist path below the W wall. Via… Rock Climbing
7-
Střmen
UIAA class 7-. Approach on the W side, via wall and down along the ledge behind the edge… Rock Climbing
7-
Přilba
UIAA class 7-. From the plateau side down to the ring. Via hand-traverse/mantel shelf to… Rock Climbing
7+
Aládin
UIAA class 7+. Via valley wall to the 1st and 2nd ring. By aid (from steps/holds) and… Rock Climbing
6
Aládin
Right of route "Džin" via chimney and crack over the overhang. Via double crack and… Rock Climbing
6+
Schilkut
UIAA class 6+. From the SW from the cave via crack (ring) to the top/crest. Rock Climbing
6
Aládin
UIAA class 6. In the left part of the valley wall via chimney to the fore-summit/pinnacle… Rock Climbing
5+
Aládin
Via route "Dvojžába" to the fore-summit/pinnacle. Directly via a slippery crack and… Rock Climbing
7/7+
Šahrazád
Via the valley (NW) wall below the overhang to the 1st ring. Via a crack in the roof… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7
Brusinkáč
From the Southwest via a fissure left to the western edge (thread/chockstone anchor) and… Rock Climbing
5
Brusinkáč
At the southern edge via chimney between the tower and the edge feature/arete to the… Rock Climbing
7
Osudová skála
From the southwest, from the cave, by crack directly over the overhang. Rock Climbing
7
Osudová skála
The ascent starts on the southwest side of the tower – in the corner to the right of the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
4
Rebelant
cl. UIAA 4 By cracks along the W edge. Rock Climbing
7
Piraňa
Along the West edge (2 rings) to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
4
Achjo
From N by opposition and up the wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5+
Piraňa
From the plateau side up the wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Sára
From the East by chimney to the plateau. Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Sára
From the West by gully to the plateau. Up the wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay

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