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Climbing at East Bohemia

14094 routes
12 areas
1–11 grades

East Bohemia is one of the most important sandstone climbing regions in Central Europe. Its centre is the Broumov region on the Polish border: the Adršpach-Teplice Rocks – a national nature reserve protected since 1933, covering 17.12 km² and part of the Broumovsko PLA since 1991 – with more than 1,800 towers up to about 90 m high, the table mountain of Ostaš with a rock labyrinth on its summit plateau, Křížový vrch near Zdoňov, and the Broumov Walls topped by Božanovský Špičák (773 m), quieter and free of charge. Outside Broumovsko there is climbing in the Giant Mountains (the Labský důl icefall), the Orlické Mountains, around Trutnov, in the Škrovád quarries and near Hořice.

Adršpach is famous for cracks, Teplice for face climbing. Strict sandstone rules apply: no chalk or metal protection, only textile slings, knots and "UFOs" between sparse rings, and climbing only on dry rock and in daylight. In Adršpach and Teplice sectors open from 1 May or only from 1 July until the end of the year, with closures for nesting birds; entry is free with a Czech Mountaineering Association card. Křížový vrch and Škrovád are among the places recommended for a first taste of East Bohemian sandstone.

Part of Czech Republic, East Bohemia has 14094 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 12 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Route in shadow, Vertical wall.

Rules

  • The ČHS rules and those of the local regional climbing commissions apply.
  • Creating or chipping holds is banned.
  • Chalk is banned or only tolerated, depending on the area.
  • No climbing on wet rock – after rain or in winter this can mean hours or days.

Many crags lie in protected areas with seasonal closures. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

4
Řečník ze stráně
Via a chimney and opposition to the ring, via the face to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
3
Mockova prdel
In the right part of the eastern facelet, via a small crack to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Mockova prdel
In the left part of the eastern facelet, entry via a small crack to the right on the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
2
Mockova prdel
Via a small crack on the northern facelet to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
7/7+
Jitřenka
At the northern corner of the tower (ascending) via the face (2 rings) to the ledge. Via… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7/7+
Jitřenka
To the right of the 'Northeast Face' route, via the face and a notch (1st ring), higher… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6+/7-
Jitřenka
In the left part of the NE face, via a crack to the ledge and traverse right in it under… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7+/8-
Jitřenka
In the S face, via a chimney to the 1st ring, to the left via a small pinnacle (2nd ring)… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7/7+
Fotografická
3m to the right of "The World is Not Black and White", via the rib (1st ring), to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Fotografická
Completely to the left from the plateau side, via a chimney to the pillar. Via the face… Rock Climbing Friends
3
Fotografická
Via the right NE chimney to the pillar and via the face to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Fotografická
Via the left NE chimney and face to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6-
Fotografická
To the left in the NW face, via opposition to the ring, (Saxon build-up) to the right via… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6+/7-
Studentská
At the western edge, via a crack to the small balcony. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Studentská
From the gorge on the NW side, via a corner to the pillar. Via opposition to the next… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6+/7-
Studentská
In the middle of the valley (SE) face, via a small pinnacle and a crack to the 1st ring.… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6+/7-
Studentská
From the Jenkova cesta chimney, through a crawl in the chimney to the valley side of the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5
Studentská
From the plateau side, via a crack and chimney to the pillar (ring). Ascending and via… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
3
Hromada
Via the NE chimney to the pillar and via the face to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Vodák
From the NW, via a small crack diagonally left to the ring. Ascending from a seated… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
Přeskok
Vodák
With a double jump to the pre-summit, ascending to the summit. Rock Climbing
5+
Vodák
At the western corner, ascending and via a small pinnacle to the ring. Via the face to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4
Vodák
From Metuje, via the eastern crack, higher up via the Zigzag Route to the summit. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +2
3
Vodák
From the E, via a crack-chimney to the saddle, via the face to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
7+/8-
Fretka
Along the right valley edge via the wall (2 rings) to the 3rd ring. Building from the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6+/7-
Fretka
Via the left valley chimney and to the right via the face to the 1st ring. Via the face… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6+/7-
Fretka
Via the "Chimney" route, stepping over to the left onto the edge and directly along it to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
3
Fretka
Via the right valley chimney to the pre-summit, by stepping over and via the face to the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
2
Pokladna
Via the upper chimney. Rock Climbing Textile belay
2
Fretka
Via the upper wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay

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