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Climbing at East Bohemia

14094 routes
12 areas
1–11 grades

East Bohemia is one of the most important sandstone climbing regions in Central Europe. Its centre is the Broumov region on the Polish border: the Adršpach-Teplice Rocks – a national nature reserve protected since 1933, covering 17.12 km² and part of the Broumovsko PLA since 1991 – with more than 1,800 towers up to about 90 m high, the table mountain of Ostaš with a rock labyrinth on its summit plateau, Křížový vrch near Zdoňov, and the Broumov Walls topped by Božanovský Špičák (773 m), quieter and free of charge. Outside Broumovsko there is climbing in the Giant Mountains (the Labský důl icefall), the Orlické Mountains, around Trutnov, in the Škrovád quarries and near Hořice.

Adršpach is famous for cracks, Teplice for face climbing. Strict sandstone rules apply: no chalk or metal protection, only textile slings, knots and "UFOs" between sparse rings, and climbing only on dry rock and in daylight. In Adršpach and Teplice sectors open from 1 May or only from 1 July until the end of the year, with closures for nesting birds; entry is free with a Czech Mountaineering Association card. Křížový vrch and Škrovád are among the places recommended for a first taste of East Bohemian sandstone.

Part of Czech Republic, East Bohemia has 14094 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 12 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Route in shadow, Vertical wall.

Rules

  • The ČHS rules and those of the local regional climbing commissions apply.
  • Creating or chipping holds is banned.
  • Chalk is banned or only tolerated, depending on the area.
  • No climbing on wet rock – after rain or in winter this can mean hours or days.

Many crags lie in protected areas with seasonal closures. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

9
Porybný
Along the upland edge below the abseil point to the ledge and left beyond the edge and… Rock Climbing
6-
Škrovádský pytlák
Along the right valley edge to the ring. Building (holds) from a sitting position, left… Rock Climbing Textile belay
4
Porybný
In the middle of the valley (NW) wall, building (holds) to the small pillar/arête, via it… Rock Climbing Textile belay
4
Škrovádský pytlák
Up the wall along the left upland edge to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
Přeskok
Porybný
From "Škrovádský pytlák" by jumping to a small balcony and via the path "Vodní pych" … Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Porybný
By bridging between "Porybný" and "Škrovádský pytlák" to the crack, then via it to a… Rock Climbing Textile belay
5+
Vodní strašidlo
The ascent starts via the path "Plný trenýrky mravenců" (Full of Ants in Underpants),… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Vodní strašidlo
Up the wall and the NW edge to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
4
Vodní strašidlo
From the "náhorka" (upland/hillock), traverse left to the NW edge and along it to the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
Přeskok
Vodní strašidlo
From the secondary summit, jump to the main summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
4
Vodní strašidlo
Via the valley chimney to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Vodní strašidlo
Up the short upland wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
Přeskok
Střelmistr
From Wihan Tower by jumping, traversing over pillars and up the wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Route on sun Textile belay
2
Ludva
From the start of the Naked Route along the edge to the right onto the pillar and via the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
2
Ludva
From the terrace traverse left and via the corner to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Ludva
From NW from the passage between Ludva and Trdlo via a crack onto the pillar. By overhang… Rock Climbing Textile belay
Přeskok
Trdlo
From the top of Ludva by jump to the top. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay
10
Španělská stěna
In the left part of the south wall via a crack and wall over two circles to the exit of… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Vertical wall
6+/7-
Squaw
To the right of the Red Leather route via the wall (2 circles) and via the Lithograph… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5
Squaw
Via the right SW chimney to the pre-summit. Via the Old Route to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
8+/9-
Squaw
Via the wall to the left of Red Leather over four circles and in the ledge from the left… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7/7+
Squaw
Right of the path, Božek's field wall (3 rings) to the fore-summit. Old route to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Squaw
Via the SE crack to the circle, by aid climbing from the belay and via the wall to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7-/7
Squaw
To the left of the rounded south edge via the wall (2 circles - of which the 1st circle… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7/7+
Squaw
To the left of the start of the Boží políčko route via the wall (3 circles) to the pre… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7/7+
Squaw
From the 3rd circle via the wall directly (4th circle) to the pre-summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4
Squaw
From the SW, via the left chimney to the fore-summit and then up the wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Squaw
Northern route to the inner pillar. Step over and wall (2 rings) to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7-/7
Squaw
The start is in the chimney to the left of the west corner of the tower. Wall over the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4
Squaw
NW chimney to the inner pillar. Wall diagonally right to the plateau. Traverse the wall… Rock Climbing Textile belay

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